Cartier Tank Normale Paris 23x30mm Yellow Gold Manual Winding Ref 78092

It has graced the wrist of Andy Warhol, Princess Diana and Yves Saint Laurent, not to mention decorated American war generals. Designed in 1917, Cartier’s Tank watch just may be one of the most famous — and beloved — timepieces in history. In 2004, Cartier introduced the Tank Solo watch, which, according to the company’s description, “honors the unique aesthetic of the original Tank” with its “simple but contemporary design.”

The roots of Cartier’s Tank watch run back to the end of the first World War. Louis Cartier (1875–1942), grandson of the legendary French jewelry house’s founder Louis-François Cartier, was reportedly inspired by the shape of the French Renault FT-17 light tanks used on the Western Front and designed a timepiece whose shape mimicked the silhouette of the tank from above (and whose small-but-powerful movement paid homage to the compact power of the FT-17). Cartier presented the prototype of the Tank watch to General John Pershing of the American Expeditionary Force.

Despite its massive popularity now, over a century later, the Cartier Tank watch was quite a niche item for many years. In its inaugural year, only six were made, and for many years after that annual production was around 100 watches or less. But by the mid-20th century, it had become a popular timepiece for men and women alike: In 1963, Prince Stanisław Radziwiłł gifted one to his sister-in-law, Jacqueline Kennedy. That watch, which bears an inscription in Radziwiłł’s own handwriting, would go on to sell for $379,500 at auction — to a modern-day icon of sorts, Kim Kardashian.

In the years since its introduction, Cartier has expanded the Tank collection to include such versions as the Tank Louis Cartier, Tank Americaine and Tank Française, each of which riff in different ways on the original design. 

Much like the first Tank models, the Tank Solo watch is characterized by its rectangular case with rounded, metal edges (which seamlessly incorporate its lugs), a dial with serifed Roman numerals, blued-steel sword-shaped hands and a Cartier signature — the iconic crown of sapphire cabochon. Cartier now offers 11 models of the Tank Solo watch, including options in leather, stainless steel, yellow gold and rose gold, as well as a variety of sizes. It remains a favorite timepiece for its elegant, understated design — and perhaps a bit for its cachet, too.

For its extraordinary range of bracelets, watches, rings and other adornments, French luxury house Cartier is undeniably one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.

Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.

Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)

Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.

One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.

Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.

On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle inspired by medieval chastity belts that transformed fine jewelry.

While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces.

On 1stDibs, find a growing collection of contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories.