Rare 1940-50s 18k Cartier EWC 2tone Enamel & Satin Silver Sector Dial Wristwatch

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Rare 1940-50s 18k Cartier EWC 2tone Enamel & Satin Silver Sector Dial Wristwatch

About the Item

A Very Early & Rare 1940s-50s Fresh To The Market Cartier & European Watch Company Two Tone "Bulls Eye" White Enamel and Satin Silver Sector Dial Wristwatch Basic Specifications - Very Early Calatrava Design concept with Beautiful flowing down turned lugs and a flat and thin case back allowing the watch to sit on a flat surface like a work of contemporary art - Fully Signed throughout details below: - Dial signed for Cartier - Movement signed European Watch Company - Inside Case back signed for European Watch Company - Case back Serial Numbered - Accompanied by later Cartier presentation box Additional Details During the late 1920s and into the 1930s the concept of the Calatrava wristwatch case design was first born and quickly became the most identifiable case shape for the mens wristwatch. Prior to the progression of case designs from the earlier 1920s the wristwatch was first rectangular, nicknamed a "trench" watch and then slowly transitioned into a cushion shaped case design. Ultimately, during the bauhaus movement which sought to apply function to design, the inception of the round Calatrava wristwatch was created as a result of the case designs goal to no longer let the watches' bottom when off wrist, sit on a table top flat in rest position and instead introduced the concept of lugs to elevate it as a means a means for better preservation of its underside. This invention was one of the most significant in horology case design as it sparked countless innovations in case design variations for how watch firms would attempt to lift the wristwatches reverse side from the table top by designing lugs in all different shapes from the revolutionary concept of the 1920s on. The present example is an extremely rare example as our research suggests that it is the only known example by Cartier of such a timepiece with beautiful flowing down turned lugs, flat and thin caseback, two tone enamel sector dial that Cartier has produced and of course with none other then the famous European watch company. Likely inspired or to compete with Patek Philippe design during this timeframe for an important client, Cartier is most famous for their women's design references and was specially known to create on occasion a mens timepiece as a special commission which would be assumed here given the extra special attention to detail throughout and collaboration with European Watch Company. The only known similar example to this style design and concept from this period with regard to identical beautifully flowing downturn lugs, two one white enamel and satin silver dial and thin and flat case back is the the well known zibach which was produced by patek and was also with a sector dial design and commissioned similarly in the same time frame which is known for also showing the notable characteristics of some of the great cases found in many of the legendary wristwatches since its case shape features beautiful flowing down turned lugs as well as a flat and thin case back allowing the watch to sit on a flat surface like a work of contemporary art. To sophisticated collectors, the present case design for this Cartier would remind them of the similarities to the cases Vichet made for the ref 130 chronograph contemporaneously and essentially set the ground work for the legendary 1526 and 1518 references and 2499 and 2497. Additionally, the present timepiece is in virtually unworn condition and runs perfectly with sharp hallmarks to the case and sharp signatures to the movement and dial. It is not only beautiful as the dials' outer satin silver hues catches and reflects the light but a trophy piece for even the most celebrated collector given its timeframe for having such a monumental case design shape and more importantly revolutionary downward lug concept design. For additional photos or details please do not hesitate to ask

Creator:
Cartier
Case Material:
18k Gold
Case Dimensions:
Width: 1.15 in (29 mm)Length: 1.15 in (29 mm)
Style:
Art Deco
Place of Origin:
France
Period:
1940-1949
Date of Manufacture:
1940-1950s
Condition:
Exceptional.
Seller Location:
New york, NY
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU121238393912

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Cartier

For its extraordinary range of bracelets, watches, rings and other adornments, French luxury house Cartier is undeniably one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.

Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.

Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)

Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.

One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.

Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.

On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle inspired by medieval chastity belts that transformed fine jewelry.

While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces.

Find contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories on 1stDibs.