Art Nouveau Jewelry Pin
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold, Gold
Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Brooches
Jade, 14k Gold
Antique Late 19th Century French Art Nouveau Brooches
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Early 1900s Danish Art Nouveau Brooches
Sterling Silver
Vintage 1930s French Art Nouveau Brooches
Amethyst, Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Vanity Items
Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold
Antique 1890s French Art Nouveau Brooches
18k Gold
Early 20th Century Russian Art Nouveau Brooches
Amethyst
Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau More Jewelry
Steel, Sterling Silver
Vintage 1980s Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches
Opal, Black Opal, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1910s Art Nouveau Brooches
Antique Early 1900s German Art Nouveau Collectible Jewelry
Ormolu
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Natural Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Enamel
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, 14k Gold
Antique Early 1900s French Art Nouveau Brooches
Garnet, Sapphire, Spinel, Opal, Gold
Antique Early 1900s German Art Nouveau Collectible Jewelry
Ormolu
Antique Early 1900s German Art Nouveau Collectible Jewelry
Ormolu
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Vanity Items
Amethyst, Pearl, Gold, 10k Gold
Antique Early 1900s Unknown Art Nouveau More Objets d'Art and Vertu
Silver, Brass
Vintage 1910s Art Nouveau Brooches
14k Gold
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Brooches
Silver
Vintage 1910s Art Nouveau Brooches
Silver, Sterling Silver
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches
Sterling Silver
Antique Late 19th Century American Art Nouveau Necklace Enhancers
Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century Norwegian Art Nouveau Brooches
Labradorite, Silver
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, Gold, 10k Gold
Vintage 1910s Art Nouveau Brooches
18k Gold
Early 2000s Spanish Art Nouveau Brooches
Sterling Silver, Enamel
Antique Late 19th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, Gold, 10k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Antique 19th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, Sapphire, Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold
Mid-20th Century American Art Nouveau Brooches
Crystal
Vintage 1920s American Art Nouveau Necklace Enhancers
Sterling Silver
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique 1890s French Art Nouveau Brooches
Emerald, Gold
Antique Late 19th Century Spanish Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Gold, Platinum, Rose Gold
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches
Turquoise, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau More Jewelry
Diamond, Yellow Gold, Enamel
20th Century British Art Nouveau Brooches
Sapphire, Gold
Antique 1890s Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches
Peridot, Diamond, Enamel, Yellow Gold
Antique Late 19th Century French Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold
Vintage 1910s Unknown Art Nouveau Vanity Items
Pearl, Yellow Gold
Antique Early 1900s German Art Nouveau Brooches
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Antique 1890s Unknown Art Nouveau More Jewelry
Diamond, Opal, 14k Gold
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Sapphire, 14k Gold, Sterling Silver, Mixed Metal
Antique Late 19th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, Turquoise, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique 1890s Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Garnet, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Antique Late 19th Century German Art Nouveau Brooches
Sterling Silver
Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, 14k Gold
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, 14k Gold, Enamel
Antique Late 19th Century Italian Art Nouveau More Jewelry
Silver
Antique 19th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches
Coral, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Antique Early 1900s French Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, Peridot, Silver
Vintage 1910s Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, 14k Gold, Enamel
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Brooches
Amethyst, 14k Gold
Antique 19th Century German Art Nouveau Brooches
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1910s Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Brooches
Aquamarine, Natural Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
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A Close Look at art-nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
- What is Art Nouveau jewelry?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertNovember 2, 2021Art Nouveau jewelry generally featured three main themes: flora, fauna and women. The Art Nouveau movement lasted 15 years and it reached its pinnacle in the year 1900. Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Enameling is most often associated with Art Nouveau jewelry, specifically plique-à-jour. Known as backless enamel, plique-à-jour allows light to come through the rear of the enamel because there is no metal backing. It creates an effect of translucence and lightness. Shop a collection of antique and vintage Art Nouveau jewelry from some of the world’s top jewelers on 1stDibs.
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From vibrant to subtle, elegant to cheeky, enamel jewelry encompasses a wide range of colors and styles, and there are almost as many techniques for creating these distinctive pieces.
What Makes Art Nouveau Jewelry So Collectible?
The first art and design movement of the 20th century was all about celebrating beauty of women and nature.