Halston Flapper

Recognized for the understated but wholly glamorous fashions he introduced in the 1970s, and revered today for his vintage dresses, sunglasses, handbags and other enduring designs, Roy Halston Frowick defined the spare, body-conscious style of the so-called Studio 54 era. In doing so, he became a legend himself, known simply as Halston, a lean moniker that represented the visionary minimalist ideals he would inject into the world of fashion.

Born in Des Moines, Iowa — but raised in Evansville, Indiana — Halston moved to Chicago in 1952, where he worked as a window dresser by day and studied at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago at night. In the late 1950s, he moved to New York City. As the hat designer for Bergdorf Goodman, he had his first encounter with fame in 1961 when Jackie Kennedy wore a pillbox hat he designed to President John F. Kennedy’s inauguration. Less than a decade later, after hats fell out of fashion and sales plummeted, Halston launched his own ready-to-wear line and opened a ​​Madison Avenue boutique.

One of Halston’s early successes was the sexy Ultrasuede shirtdress, an unassuming adaptation of a man’s oxford shirt introduced in 1972 that became a fashion staple for the well-dressed woman. Named for a washable synthetic fabric that evokes the feel of suede — Halston is said to have previously seen innovative designer Issey Miyake wearing the material — the Ultrasuede shirtdress was cut to complement many figures with buttons that began at the breastbone rather than at the garment’s structured neckline. In one season, 60,000 were sold. Ultrasuede became a Halston signature, and he would use the fabric in coats, luggage and other items.

But it was his seductively simple nightlife designs that made Halston an international name. Often cut on the bias or sewn with single seams, his garments were constructed to flatter the female form like no evening gowns that had come before, popularizing such styles as the halter dress. “Halston brought a spark of the divine to everything he did,” said model Pat Cleveland during an interview about the 2021 Netflix series based on his life.

And, for a while, the designer was as ubiquitous in the clubs as his designs. “For two decades, [Halston] was the king of New York nightlife,” wrote Steven Gaines in Vanity Fair. He was a regular at Studio 54, partying with the likes of Andy Warhol, Bianca Jagger, Liza Minnelli and his Halstonettes, his coterie of glamorous models and muses that included Elsa Peretti. The close friend and collaborator of Halston’s transformed diamond jewelry for Tiffany & Co. after signing a contract with the storied American luxury house in 1974.

Halston won four Coty American Fashion Critics' Awards over the course of his career. In 1973, he sold his company to Norton Simon, and in the early 1980s, it switched ownership again. By 1984, neither his name nor his company were his own. Halston continued to work, however. He collaborated with close friend and legendary choreographer Martha Graham, designing critically acclaimed costumes for her, including for her dance work Persephone in 1987. Halston died of complications from AIDS in 1990.

Today, Halston’s designs can be found in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston and more.

Find vintage Halston clothing and fashion accessories today on 1stDibs.

With entire museum exhibitions dedicated to examining fashion designers and their creations, we’re finally recognizing that costuming is art. Evening dresses over time have conveyed specific statements about social class, position and beliefs. Fashion is a powerful means of self-expression, and sophisticated vintage evening dresses and gowns by our favorite couturier play no small role in making us feel wonderful but, perhaps more importantly, making us feel like ourselves.

In the 16th century, dresses and gowns were so important that England's Queen Elizabeth I defined rules about what dresses women could wear — guidance included long skirts and fitted bodices. Forward-thinking designers have responded to this history.

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel reimagined traditionally masculine garments for feminine shapes, and her elegant evening dresses and gowns promoted comfort and grace in women’s wear that had been dominated in the previous century by layers of fabric. Christian Dior's gowns celebrated luxury and femininity in the late 1940s — and gave to women the gift of glamour they’d lost in the miserable years of the war. French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent introduced innovative and highly coveted dress designs in the 1960s while at the same time challenging sexist stereotypes about which members of society could wear tuxedos.

Works by unconventional British designer John Galliano — featured in houses like Givenchy and Dior — redefined limits that dressmakers faced in terms of material, construction and vision during the late 20th century. From his embroidered absinthe-green Oscars gown for actress Nicole Kidman to the iconic sleeveless Dior newspaper dress that Sex and the City’s Carrie Bradshaw made famous, Galliano’s intricate and multifaceted work is reliably collectible and newsworthy

Today’s designers target an increasingly broad audience with their boundary-crossing work, and their tendency to play off of each other’s ideas means that every walk down the runway is also a walk through an entire history of fashion design and dress craftsmanship.

Whether you gravitate toward backless maxi dresses or silk charmeuse gowns by Alexander McQueen or embellished, ruffled floral-print designs by Chloe or Versace, there is an extraordinary collection of vintage and designer evening dresses and gowns waiting for you on 1stDibs.