Mauboussin Cocotte

During the roaring ’20s, Paris saw a confluence of wealthy and creative people flock to the city from all over the world, like artists, writers, princes and singers. Designer Georges Mauboussin understood the vibrant and cosmopolitan spirit of the time, and at the jewelry house he would propel to fame, Mauboussin, he became an iconic creator of Art Deco jewelry, using jade, lapis lazuli, pearls and other precious materials imported from around the globe.

The Mauboussin brand owes its success to expertise with precious metals and gems and its illustrious clientele. The fine jewelry house, originally founded in Paris in 1827 as the Maison Noury, is known for being highly experimental with mountings for diamonds, finding inspiration in fields like aeronautics (Georges’s son Pierre Mauboussin got into the airplane engineering business in the late 1920s) and filing patents for many of its inventions.

This modern sensibility drew royal clients from the Middle East and Egypt (Queen Nazli owned several dazzling pieces), as well as Hollywood stars like Marlene Dietrich and Charlie Chaplin. However, its most significant royal relationship was with the stylish maharaja of Indore, Yashwant Rao Holkar II, who designated Mauboussin as his official purveyor in 1933. One of the maison’s legendary pieces for the maharaja is a necklace that uses two of the world’s most beautiful diamonds, the Indore Pears, part of the maharaja’s collection.

In its long history, Mauboussin has found creative and beautiful ways to incorporate the tastes of the time into its luxury jewelry, responding to movements like Cubism as well as crises like the Great Depression when it shifted to more affordable pieces that would be available to a larger audience. (From 1936 to 1953, Mauboussin also partnered with Trabert & Hoeffer to stay afloat following the Wall Street crash.) In the 1990s, the company expanded into perfume and watches. Galeries Lafayette acquired a majority stake in the company in 2019 with the jeweler continuing to showcase a dedication to its French heritage with an international approach to design.

Find a collection of vintage Mauboussin rings, necklaces and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

Antique and vintage rings have long held a special place in the hearts of fine jewelry lovers all over the world.

No matter their origin or specific characteristics, rings are timeless, versatile accessories. They’ve carried deep meaning since at least the Middle Ages, when diamond rings symbolized strength and other kinds of rings were worn to signify romantic feelings or to denote an affiliation with a religious order. Rings have also forever been emblematic of eternity.

Over time, rings have frequently taken the form of serpents, which have long been associated with eternal life, health and renewal. Italian luxury jewelry house Bulgari has become famous for its widely loved Serpenti motif, for example, and its Serpenti ring, like the other accessories in the collection, began as an homage to jewelry of the Roman and Hellenistic eras. The serpent is now a popular motif in fine jewelry. Jewelry devotees have long pined for rings adorned with reptiles, thanks to antique Victorian rings — well, specifically, Queen Victoria’s illustrious engagement ring, which took the form of a gold snake set with rubies, diamonds and an emerald (her birthstone). Designs for Victorian-era engagement rings often featured repoussé work and chasing, in which patterns are hammered into the metal.

Engagement rings, which are reliably intimidating to shop for, are still widely recognized as symbols of love and commitment. On 1stDibs, a range of buying guides can be found for those in the market for antique engagement rings, vintage engagement rings or Art Deco engagement rings. 

The most collectible antique engagement rings and vintage engagement rings are those from the Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco eras. Named for the monarchies of the four King Georges, who in succession ruled England starting in 1714 (plus King William’s reign), antique Georgian rings, be they engagement rings or otherwise, are also coveted by collectors. Pearls, along with colored gemstones like garnets, rubies and sapphires, were widely used in Georgian jewelry. The late-1700s paste jewelry was a predecessor to what we now call fashion or costume jewelry. 

The Art Nouveau movement (1880–1910) brought with it rings inspired by the natural world. Antique Art Nouveau rings might feature depictions of winged insects and fauna as well as women, who were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized, frequently with long flowing hair. Art Deco jewelry, on the other hand, which originated during the 1920s and ’30s, is by and large “white jewelry.” White metals, primarily platinum, were favored over yellow gold in the design of antique Art Deco rings and other accessories as well as geometric motifs, with women drawn to the era’s dazzling cocktail rings in particular.

Whether you’re hunting down a chunky classic for a Prohibition-themed cocktail party or seeking a clean contemporary design to complement your casual ensemble, find an exquisite collection of antique, new and vintage rings on 1stDibs.