Something From Tiffanys Daisy

Tiffany & Co. is one of the most prominent purveyors of luxury goods in the United States, and has long been an important arbiter of style in the design of diamond engagement rings. A young Franklin Delano Roosevelt proposed to his future wife, Eleanor, with a Tiffany ring in 1904. Vanderbilts, Whitneys, Astors and members of the Russian imperial family all wore Tiffany & Co. jewels. And Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis preferred Tiffany china for state dinners at the White House.

Although synonymous with luxury today, the firm started out rather modestly. Charles Lewis Tiffany and John B. Young founded it in Connecticut as a “stationery and fancy goods emporium” in 1837, at a time when European imports still dominated the nascent American luxury market. In 1853, Charles Tiffany — who in 1845 had launched the company’s famed catalog, the Blue Book, and with it, the firm’s signature robin’s-egg blue, which he chose for the cover — shifted the focus to fine jewelry. In 1868, Tiffany & Co. gained international recognition when it became the first U.S. firm to win an award for excellence in silverware at the Exposition Universelle in Paris. From then on, it belonged to the pantheon of American luxury brands.

At the start of the Gilded Age, in 1870, Tiffany & Co. opened its flagship store, described as a "palace of jewels" by the New York Times, at 15 Union Square West in Manhattan. Throughout this period, its designs for silver tableware, ceremonial silver, flatware and jewelry were highly sought-after indicators of status and taste. They also won the firm numerous accolades, including the grand prize for silverware at the Paris Exposition of 1878. Among the firm’s glittering creations from this time are masterworks of Art Nouveau jewelry, such as this delicate aquamarine necklace and this lavish plique-à-jour peridot and gold necklace, both circa 1900.

When Charles Lewis Tiffany died, in 1902, his son Louis Comfort Tiffany became the firm’s design director. Under his leadership, the Tiffany silver studio was a de facto design school for apprentice silversmiths, who worked alongside head artisan Edward C. Moore. The firm produced distinctive objects inspired by Japanese art and design, North American plants and flowers, and Native American patterns and crafts, adding aesthetic diversity to Tiffany & Co.’s distinguished repertoire.

Tiffany is also closely associated with diamonds, even lending its name to one particularly rare and exceptional yellow stone. The firm bought the Tiffany diamond in its raw state from the Kimberley mines of South Africa in 1878. Cut to create a 128.54-carat gem with an unprecedented 82 facets, it is one of the most spectacular examples of a yellow diamond in the world. In a broader sense, Tiffany & Co. helped put diamonds on the map in 1886 by introducing the American marketplace to the solitaire diamond design, which is still among the most popular engagement-ring styles. The trademark Tiffany® Setting raises the stone above the band on six prongs, allowing its facets to catch the light. A lovely recent example is this circa-2000 platinum engagement ring. Displaying a different design and aesthetic (but equally chic) is this exquisite diamond and ruby ring from the 1930s.

Rooted in centuries of history of adornment dating back to the ancient world, modern jewelry reimagines traditional techniques, forms and materials for expressive new pieces. As opposed to contemporary jewelry, which responds to the moment in which it was created, modern jewelry often describes designs from the 20th to 21st centuries that reflect movements and trends in visual culture.

Modern jewelry emerged from the 19th-century shift away from jewelry indicating rank or social status. The Industrial Revolution allowed machine-made jewelry using electric gold plating, metal alloys and imitation stones, making beautiful jewelry widely accessible. Although mass production deemphasized the materials of the jewelry, the vision of the designer remained important, something that would be furthered in the 1960s with what’s known as the “critique of preciousness.”

A design fair called the “Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes” brought global attention to the Art Deco style in 1925 and gathered a mix of jewelry artists alongside master jewelers like Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin and Boucheron. Art Deco designs from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels unconventionally mixed gemstones like placing rock crystals next to diamonds while borrowing motifs from eclectic sources including Asian lacquer and Persian carpets. Among Cartier’s foremost design preoccupations at the time were high-contrast color combinations and crisp, geometric forms and patterns. In the early 20th century, modernist jewelers like Margaret De Patta and artists such as Alexander Calder — who is better known for his kinetic sculptures than his provocative jewelry — explored sculptural metalwork in which geometric shapes and lines were preferred over elaborate ornamentation.

Many of the innovations in modern jewelry were propelled by women designers such as Wendy Ramshaw, who used paper to craft her accessories in the 1960s. During the 1970s, Elsa Peretti created day-to-night pieces for Tiffany & Co. while designers like Lea Stein experimented with layering plastic, a material that had been employed in jewelry since the mid-19th century and had expanded into Bakelite, acrylics and other unique materials.

Find a collection of modern watches, bracelets, engagement rings, necklaces, earrings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

A fluid, dazzling finishing touch is here for the taking. Vintage link bracelets are among the most versatile accessories in your jewelry box, perfect for everyday wear or an evening outing with friends.

The oldest bracelet in the world was unearthed in 2015 in Russia and is around 40,000 years old. It is stone, made of chlorite, and quite fragile. The finding also included a tiara made of ivory from a woolly mammoth. Most likely a decorative piece used only for special occasions, the bracelet was a far cry from the bracelets and other jewelry we accessorize with today.

Owing to a metallic flash or the sparkle of a luxurious gemstone, a link bracelet introduces an eye-catching dynamic that can contrast wonderfully with the textures of fabric. A link bracelet can also magnify a pattern you’ve set into motion with other accessories, such as stacked with your go-to cuff bracelets or paired with a matching gold chain necklace (there are many kinds to choose from), earrings or a vintage shoulder bag with a similar metallic clasp. Often, a link bracelet is an understated yet elegant means of enhancing any outfit, subtle and tasteful.

Such bracelets are perennial partly because of the wide range of styles available. They boast a simple construction — typically chain links and a closure system — that makes them ideal for pairing with nearly any ensemble. Link bracelets can also see an integration of other types of elements such as lockets and medallions linked together in an overlapping or interlocking way, such as in the charm bracelet, which has been popular for centuries.

The two main things to consider when choosing a vintage link bracelet are the material and the design. Some bracelets feature charms, diamonds, gemstones or other ornamental flourishes. Pearls and cameos are exciting options to explore for a classic look. Link bracelets set with gemstones such as sapphires can offer a beautiful focal point in a jewel-toned ensemble. Similarly, antique diamond link bracelets can introduce a layer of sophistication as a captivating accessory that exquisitely reflects light on its chain links during a formal dinner or a night out on the town.

Choosing between gold link bracelets and silver link bracelets is another important consideration. In most cases, gold jewelry will look best on warm skin tones while white metals like silver and platinum are best for cool skin tones. There are also some link bracelets that mix metals for a more modern and playful look.

On 1stDibs, find a collection of unique vintage link bracelets that includes those designed at iconic luxury houses such as Bulgari and Cartier.