Art Nouveau Brooches
ART NOUVEAU STYLE
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
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Period: 19th Century
Style: Art Nouveau
Art Nouveau Antique Gold Diamond Lapel Pocket Watch
Located in New York, NY
Antique Art Nouveau 18k gold pocket watch, high relief case, decorated with diamonds. Case is 23mm in diameter. With porcelain dial and original filigree hands. Suspended on a 14k gold Nouveau floral...
Category
19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Gold
Antique 18K Dragonfly Brooch, Circa 1880-1910
Located in Old Tappan, NJ
Antique, circa 1880-1910, 18K yellow gold and silver handmade dragonfly brooch/pendant slide with sapphire, opal, ruby and diamond.
The plique-a-jour wings are pale blue/green ename...
Category
1890s Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Opal, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Silver
Art Nouveau Maiden Woman Pearl Flower Brooch Pin 14 Karat Gold Pearl Crescent
Located in New York, NY
A stunning Brooch in the form of a Maiden Woman with Flowers in her hair and set with Pearls in a crescent moon motif. The Woman Brooch dates to the Belle Epoque - Art Nouveau perio...
Category
19th Century Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold
Victorian Sapphire Diamond Silver-Topped 14 Karat Gold Flower Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a heavily oxidized stemmed flower centering a cushion cut sapphire weighing approximately 0.78 carat; transparent and a bright royal blue color
With petal surround and l...
Category
1880s Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
Victorian Gold Snake Stick-Pin
Located in London, GB
A Victorian snake gold stick-pin, the old European-cut diamond weighing approximately 0.3 carats surrounded by a coiled gold snake with textured finish, all in 18ct gold, to yellow g...
Category
1880s British Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
French Art Nouveau 18 Karat Yellow Gold Vernier Brooch
Located in Poitiers, FR
Brooch in 18 karat yellow gold, eagle head hallmark.
Round in shape, this lovely antique brooch represents a young woman in profile, her hair punctuated with daisies and her dress ma...
Category
Late 19th Century French Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
French Fin De Siècle Enamel and Diamond Peacock Fan Pin
Located in London, GB
A French fin de siècle enamel and diamond peacock fan pin, consisting of nine multicolour enamelled feathers each bearing a rose-cut diamond, to a rose-cut diamond-set palmette decoration and rose-gold handle, with red gold brooch fitting, bearing French hallmark, circa 1895, measuring approximately 6 x 2cm, gross weight 7.7 grams.
Imported Hallmark, gold France after June 2 1893. Pin in good condition for its age with minimal signs of wear.
A striking French enamel and diamond pin...
Category
1890s French Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Diamond, 18k Gold, Enamel
Fabulous Art Nouveau Black Starr Frost Platinum Filigree 100ct Australian Opal
Located in St. Petersburg, FL
One of the largest and most magnificent natural Australian opal cabochons we have ever seen, set in an exquisite and signed Black Starr & Frost brooch set with diamonds that has been...
Category
Late 19th Century American Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Opal, Platinum
Art Nouveau Pin Brooch in Gold Rose and Platinum with Diamonds
Located in Bilbao, ES
Art-Nouveau pin brooch in rose gold with knurled platinum setting and a clean central diamond. All the bands are knurled platinum full of diamonds.
MATERI...
Category
Late 19th Century Spanish Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Gold, Platinum, Rose Gold
French Art Nouveau Ruby Natural Pearl 18 Karat Yellow Gold Brooch
Located in Poitiers, FR
Brooch in 18 karat yellow gold, eagle's head hallmark.
A delightful Art Nouveau jewel, it represents a foliage set with three small natural pearls topped w...
Category
1890s French Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Pearl, Natural Pearl, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Art Nouveau 18 Karat Gold Carved Pin
Located in Banbury, GB
A very unusual Art Nouveau pin in 18ct gold that was made circa 1890-1910 in France. It is a charming subject of a god portrait on top of the pin. Perfect condition.
Weight: 3g
Leng...
Category
1890s French Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
18k Gold
Antique 1880 Art Nouveau Diamond, Pearl and Enamel Broach in Gold
Located in New York, NY
One of a kind Antique 1880 Art Nouveau Diamond , Pearl and enamel broach handcrafted in yellow gold.
The details are as follows :
Diamond weight : 1 ca...
Category
1880s American Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Pearl, Gold, Enamel
Art Nouveau 0.40 Carat Demantoid Garnet Gold Stylized Whiplash Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Centering two bezel set round and old European cut demantoid garnets weighing approximately 0.40 carat total, transparent medium-dark yellowish-green
Surrounded by three sections of swirling Art Nouveau whiplash...
Category
Late 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Garnet, Yellow Gold
Art Nouveau Gold Portrait Brooch Pin Pendant 1900s
Located in Wallkill, NY
Vintage art nouveau circa 1900s Profile of a women brooch pin. Lovely lady in a bonnet. You can attach a chain to the back to wear as a pendant. Crafted i...
Category
Late 19th Century American Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Gold, Yellow Gold
Taylor & Co. Inc. Art Nouveau Citrine 10 Karat Gold Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Centering a bezel set elongated oval cabochon citrine, measuring approximately 8.0 x 4.2 mm
Bright and very slightly brownish-orange
Matte gold with a tapered and slight scrolling ...
Category
Late 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Citrine, Gold, 10k Gold, Yellow Gold
Russian Sapphire and Diamond Horse-Shoe Brooch
Located in London, GB
A Russian 19th century diamond and sapphire double horse-shoe brooch, consisted of two interlocking horse-shoes, the one encrusted with eight sapphires, th...
Category
1880s Russian Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Sapphire, 14k Gold
Brokaw & Son Art Nouveau Pearl Diamond 14 Karat Gold Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as the head of an eagle holding a pearl in its mouth measuring approximately 3.4 mm, white body color with excellent luster and surface quality
Accented with an old Europea...
Category
Late 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
White Diamond, Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late Victorian Gem-Set Butterfly Brooch
Located in London, GB
A late Victorian gem-set butterfly brooch, the body is a gold spring terminating to a natural pearl, the eyes set with two cabochon-cut rubies, th...
Category
1890s French Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Emerald, Natural Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum
Antique Brooch with Cabochon Lapis Lazuli Center and Rose & Diamonds
Located in Surfside, FL
ESTIMATED RETAIL: $5,400 YOUR PRICE: $3,540 - Antique Brooch with cabochon lapis lazuli center and rose & cushion cut diamonds set in 14K gold. Secured C clasp dates the brooch prior...
Category
Late 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Lapis Lazuli
Art Nouveau Iris Flower Sapphire Diamond Pearl Brooch Pin Gold Stunning
Located in New York, NY
A spectacular iris flower brooch dating to the Art Nouveau period. The iris is composed of fine natural blue Sapphires, a central Pearl and Old Mine Cut Diamonds. The jewels are se...
Category
19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Pearl, Sapphire, Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold
French Becker Art Nouveau Rose-Cut Diamond 18 Karat Yellow Gold Brooch
Located in Poitiers, FR
Brooch in 18 karat yellow gold, eagle's head hallmark.
Superb brooch, Art Nouveau style, it represents a branch of mistletoe, the leaves of which are set with rose- cut diamonds, under which is a young woman, her hair loose and tied by a link set with rose- cut diamonds. The letter "B" is engraved on the front. The clasp of this antique brooch is a pin. The brooch is engraved on the back: "Déposé".
From Becker french designer.
Diameter: 3 cm, thickness: about 2 mm.
Total weight of the jewel: around 14.5 g.
Authentic antique jewel - French work from the 1890s.
Our opinion: A massive brooch...
Category
1890s French Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Art Nouveau Diamond 14 Karat Gold Green Man Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Stylized green man face with wide diamond set eyes
Two old European cut diamonds, weighing approximately 0.05 carat total, eye-clean and white
With an open mouth and bold expressio...
Category
Late 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
White Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Krementz Art Nouveau Pearl Demantoid Garnet 14 Karat Gold Star Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a six rayed star, each with two round freshwater natural pearls, white body color and slight silver overtones
Centering a claw set, round cut demantoid garnet, transpare...
Category
Late 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Garnet, Pearl, Natural Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
French Art Nouveau Naturalistic Papillon De Nuit Brooch Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Large French Art Nouveau natural horn brooch, finely hand carved, depicting a large naturalistic night moth. The iridescence in the natural horn allows this to become the perfect mat...
Category
1890s French Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Brass
Golay and Fils Diamond Flower Maiden Brooch Swiss Enamel Art Nouveau 18 Karat
Located in New York, NY
This is a spectacular flower maiden brooch in enamel with rose cut diamonds in 18 Karat gold by Golay & Fils of Geneva, Switzerland. A beautiful maiden is set within a vivid red fl...
Category
19th Century Swiss Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Diamond, 18k Gold, Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Art Nouveau 18 Karat Yellow Gold French Lion Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Depicting profile of roaring lion with detailed face and mane
With decorative whiplash surround and matte finish
French maker's mark and french assay mark for 18 karat gold
Head m...
Category
Late 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Art Nouveau Platinum Brooch with White Diamonds
Located in Bilbao, ES
This beautiful Art Deco Brooch in rectangular shape and platinum openwork is full of brilliant-cut and cushion-cut white diamonds, with a central white diamond in oval shape and knur...
Category
1890s Spanish Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
White Diamond, Platinum
Art Nouveau Ruby 14 Karat Gold Satyr Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Centering a face of a satyr with horns, long ears, and swirling beard
Accented by round ruby cabochon eyes, transparent and purplish-red in color
Matte gold finish
Stamped 14kt fo...
Category
Late 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Carter Gough & Co. Art Nouveau Pearl 14 Karat Gold Greek God Pan Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Depicting the stylized face of the Greek god Pan with long ears and curved horn design on forehead
With open mouth holding a baroque pearl, white body color with silver and yellow o...
Category
Late 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Art Nouveau Butterfly Pendant Brooch 30 OMC Diamonds Ruby Enamel 18 Karat Gold
Located in New York, NY
A wonderful and rare early Art Nouveau Brooch Pendant in the form of a Butterfly. The magnificent Butterfly is 18 Karat Gold.
It is set with 30 gorgeous Old Mine Cut Diamonds. The...
Category
Late 19th Century Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Theodor Fahrner Jugendstil Green Onyx Sterling Silver Brooch Pin Estate Find
Located in Montreal, QC
Rare Art Nouveau Sterling Silver Fahrner Brooch, center set with a green onyx stone, surrounded by embossed lily foliate designs. Signed: TF in circle for Theodor Fahrner and 935. Ci...
Category
Late 19th Century German Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Onyx, Sterling Silver
Kalo Pink Tourmaline and Pearl Brooch
By Kalo
Located in New York, NY
Charming brooch from the Kalo workshops from the turn of the 20th Century. Bezel set with a cab tourmaline and freshwater pearl in a hand raised foliate frame. Small but unusual in 1...
Category
Late 19th Century American Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Natural Pearl, 14k Gold
Carter Gough & Co. 14 Karat Gold Canoe Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a polished gold canoe
Dimensional and at a jaunty angle
With maker's mark for Carter Gough & Co. and stamped 14K
Canoe Measures: Approx. 1/4 x 3/4 Inch
Total Length:...
Category
Late 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Art Nouveau Platinum Diamond and 18 Karat Yellow Gold Brooch with Ladies Profile
Located in Birmingham, AL
This is an absolutely stunning piece! This art nouveau brooch is made in Platinum with a round 18K Yellow gold center with a woman's figuring in bas relief. The brooch contains 76 mi...
Category
Late 19th Century Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Diamond, 18k Gold, Platinum
Art Nouveau Diamond 10 Karat Gold Green Man Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a stylized Green Man face with a pierced pear shaped mouth
Featuring two claw set old European cut diamonds, eye-clean and white
Matte gold with an aged finish
Tested ...
Category
Late 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
White Diamond, 10k Gold, Yellow Gold
Art Nouveau Antique Seagull Diamond Enamel Gold Brooch France
Located in Munich, Bavaria
Extremely rare Art Nouveau brooch of a seagull. The finely modelled bird is decorated with guilloché-enamel in pale blue, green and pink iridescent colours. The bird is made out of ...
Category
1890s French Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Diamond, 18k Gold, Enamel, Platinum
Art Nouveau Amethyst Diamond Platinum Gold Roses Brooch
Located in Munich, Bavaria
Finely chiselled Art Nouveau 18K gold brooch with a rectangular faceted amethyst. Finely modelled roses, leaves and foliage. Six diamonds are mounted in platinum.
Category
1890s Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Amethyst, Diamond, Platinum, 18k Gold
1900s Cameo Cabochon Sapphire Gold Frame Brooch
Located in Bay Harbor Islands, FL
The cameo brooch was made in the early 1900s. It has a cabochon sapphire set in the top of the frame, and one hanging from the bottom of the frame. On the reverse side is a wire so t...
Category
Late 19th Century Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Sapphire, 18k Gold
Art Nouveau Wiese Spirit 18 Karat Yellow Gold Antique Brooch
Located in Poitiers, FR
Brooch in 18 karats yellow gold, eagle's head hallmark.
Lovely antique jewel, this brooch represents a basket of flowers delicately chiseled and openwork. The clasp is a pin with saf...
Category
1890s French Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Emile Olive An Impressive Belle Epoque Brooch Pendant by Fonsèque & Olive
Located in London, GB
Illustrated in our book:
Beatriz Chadour-Sampson & Sonya Newell-Smith, Tadema Gallery London Jewellery from the 1860s to 1960s, Arnoldsche Art Publishers, Stuttgart 2021, cat. no. 46...
Category
1890s French Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Emerald, Natural Pearl, 18k Gold, Silver
Jugenstil Diamond Pendant Brooch, circa 1890
Located in London, GB
Jugenstil Diamond Pendant Brooch, circa 1890
18ct yellow gold and silver set, diamonds.
Setting diamonds in silver, “silver set”, was a techni...
Category
Late 19th Century Austrian Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Diamond, 18k Gold
Belle Epoque Carved Agate Pearl Gold "Naiad and Sturgeons" Jewel
Located in London, GB
Illustrated in our book:
Beatriz Chadour-Sampson & Sonya Newell-Smith, Tadema Gallery London Jewellery from the 1860s to 1960s, Arnoldsche Art Publishers, Stuttgart 2021, cat. no. 377
A rare depiction in jewelry of a naiad* (fresh water mermaid) encircled by two sturgeon & water lily leaves. It appears that the naiad has called the sturgeon up stream to spawn.
Inspiration & workmanship worthy of a Faberge Jewel...
Category
1890s French Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Agate, Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold
Early Scandanvian Enamel Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Long sterling and enamel brooch with drops and dangles in deep cobalt blue and pearlescent white enamel. From the early part of the the 20th Century. ...
Category
Late 19th Century Danish Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Sterling Silver
Art Nouveau Maiden Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Art Nouveau sterling high relief brooch of a maiden with head wrap. Whiplash ribbons of silver form the frame capped in tiny lily of the valley buds. Highly unusual subject matter. M...
Category
1890s American Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Sterling Silver
French Art Nouveau Blond Horn Rose Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Large French Art Nouveau honey colored horn and metal brooch, depicting an unfurling rose highlighted with cold paint and stained color details.
The design of each unique piece is ...
Category
1890s French Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Theodor Fahrner Jugendstil Amethyst Sterling Silver Brooch Pin
Located in Montreal, QC
Rare Art Nouveau Sterling Silver Fahrner oval Brooch, center set with two amethysts, surrounded by embossed lily foliage designs. Signed: TF in circle for: Theodor Fahrner and 935; c...
Category
1890s German Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Amethyst, Sterling Silver
Jugendstil Silver Brooch Pin Fine Estate Jewelry
Located in Montreal, QC
Beautiful Jugendstil Brooch in silver; hand hammered center, embossed floras and ovals border; marked: 800; approx. diameter size: 2”; Jugendstil - An art movement embracing life! An...
Category
Late 19th Century German Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Sterling Silver
Unusual French Galleon Brooch
Located in New York, NY
French Galleon brooch from the early 1900's. Beautifully constructed of mother of pearl sails and hand carved sterling with amazing details. Extremely o...
Category
Late 19th Century French Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Sterling Silver
Antique Sapphire Diamond Platinum Circle Bow Pin
Located in New York, NY
Feminine and graceful antique diamond circle pin. Set in platinum with applied square cut sapphire bow. Brilliant white diamonds weighing appro...
Category
Late 19th Century American Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum
Tiffany & Co. 4 Carat Total Diamond and Onyx Platinum Bar Pin Brooch
Located in Atlanta, GA
1890s Art Nouveau Antique Tiffany and Co. Diamond Brooch - 18 karat Yellow Gold, Platinum, Diamonds
Features:
Platinum Head and 18 karat Yellow...
Category
Late 19th Century American Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
1900s Whiteside and Blank Art Nouveau Pearl 14 Karat Yellow Gold Orchid Brooch
Located in Lexington, KY
With a delicate flourish, this orchid brooch fades from translucent magenta to olive on the delicate, velvety petals. The lines are so seamless that it looks as though this could be a real orchid. This brooch dates back to around 1900 and has what seems to be its original, natural pearl. The Art Nouveau period comes to life through this orchid. It is made up of enamel and 14k yellow gold, elevating the elegance of this piece. Its delicacy is reflected in its size, as it is approximately one inch tall and one inch wide. It is signed Whiteside and Blank...
Category
1890s American Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Natural Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
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