Brass Necklaces

Robert Goosens, the French haute-couture Chanel-favorite parurier who enjoyed reinterpreting ancient and antique styles of jewelry with rock crystal and faux stones, also collaborated with Madame Alix Gres. Relevant to this statement necklace, the Parisian theatrical-costume designer, who founded the French fashion-house Maison Gres, commissioned Goosens to make spiral-wire adornments for her couture gowns. This handmade hammered brass wire choker necklace with five dropped en-tremblant pendants is decorated with unique colorful beads and wrapped wire. The piece dates between 1969-1971 based on similar unsigned spiraled-wire metal jewelry without goldsmithing marks in the museum collection of TheMet (see our photo), which acquired it from Maison Givenchy founder Hubert de Givenchy, who was one of most supportive fans of Gres. Like the legendary sculptural clothing designs of Madame Gres, this necklace was inspired by Greco-Roman costumes, while its sculpted shapes by Goosens reference her signature curvilinear fabric techniques that earned her the sobriquet of "the master of the wrapped and draped dress". Goosens (1927-2016), nicknamed Monsieur Bijou, also made jewelry inspired by other periods of antiquity to compliment the couture clothing of Coco Chanel, Cristobal Balenciaga, Elsa Schiaparelli, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent. After Goosens collaborated with Gres, he revisited golden spiral designs with Saint Laurent. Similar to the free-flowing fabric manipulated in Gres gowns, this hand-shaped necklace that we photographed in sunlight is a study in motion that drapes across a curvy cleavage. Adding drama to this necklace below its wire choker, the top teetering-wire pendant is a twisted and hammered horizontal double spiral, which is a Hellenistic symbol of life and transformation suggesting the breasts of a goddess of fertility and motherhood. Yet distinctly Goosens, 18 hand-cut and hand-dyed "ancient-Roman-blue" rock-crystal beads are wire-strung to weight a second tier of two separate vertical double-spiral pendants. On each, a wrapped-wire tube divides the blue beads. Between these vertical pendants in two tiers, the central vertical pendants each feature a one-of-a-kind multicolor bead (yellow/blue/red/black/white) in two lengths with abstract organic patterns recalling ancient Italian glasswork. Four more blue beads bracket these larger colorful beads. An additional 10 blue beads and 5 wire tubes decorate the bottom looped wire pendant, as well as the bottom of the wire choker. Like the hammered-wire jewelry designs of modern artist Alexander Calder, the creative complex construction of this necklace surprisingly required no metalsmith techniques, such as soldering or casting, just great skill with a jewelry pliers and hammer. For a bigger picture of couture clothing by Madame Gres during the decade beginning in 1969, she notably designed many museum-collected one-color silk-taffeta draped long gowns with empire waists and simple high collars or geometric cut-outs. Remarkably, the focal points for some of these unique dresses were at the wrists, from where long pouf sleeves voluminously droop around the hands to nearly the floor like two enormous long-petaled flowers. If paired with this equally downward-focused and balanced necklace from this same period, its bold Greco-Roman elements would have pulled a viewer's gaze of the dress from floor to face. Although there is no significant provenance for this necklace, hammered brass and tinted rock crystal were among the few materials repeatedly associated with Goosens from 1969-71. For example, in his overlapping interior-decor collections based on themes of waterlilies or foliage, Goosens hammered gilt brass wire and sheets (see our closeup photo) to represent plant parts or he wired rock-crystal beads to appear as tiny fruits. While the two multicolor glass or resin beads in this necklace are atypical, the combination of blue, yellow and red is a palette that the designer used for other pieces of rock-crystal jewelry and he created many kinds of multicolor faux stones with glass or resin paste, such as faux Tibetan turquoise including black and white. According to journalism based on interviews with Goosens, he often acquired unusual stones and glass for inspiration during his extensive travels exploring museum-collected antiquities. Since Maison Goosens was acquired in 2005 by Maison Chanel, it opened the Parisian showroom Galerie Goosens and associated shops to sell many kinds of reproductions and reimagined works by the founder, which fortunately does not suit the completely handmade elements of this necklace. So this couture piece remains one-of-a-kind. If desiring a vintage haute-couture original by Robert Goosens, we recommend perusing the Maison Goosens website so that a reproduction with a contemporary signature is not mistakenly purchased. Madame Gres (1903-1993) was born Germaine Emelie Krebs, but initially identified her fashion designs with the pseudonym Alix and later Alix Barton...

Robert Lee Morris Turtle Back Link iconic chain from the 1990's. Originally created for his Signature collection and reworked later for Donna Karan's colle...

Miriam Haskell's Turquoise pate de verre cross pendant necklace. Embellished with gilt facated cut steel bead work on signature Russian gold finished filigrees. 1950's USA. Cross 3...

Miriam Haskell classic round small and medium sized faux baroque pearl necklace enhanced by looping pearl swags enhanced by Russian Gilt tw...

Stephen Dweck 3 Strand Necklace The necklace is brass There is blue coral, Smokey quartz, agate, pearls, etc. The necklace is 19" Long The necklace weighs 183.9 grams

Brutalist mixed metal industrial choker necklace c 1990s The severe bold artisan choker is designed with a large triangular metal pendant. The large pendant is designed with a d...

Acquired in The States and likely inspired by the American 1938-commissioned animated-feature movie, Pinocchio, that was produced for two years by Walt Disney based on an Italian children's story, this unsigned pre-WWII yellow-gold-gilt brass necklace with elegant draping chains features a three-inch-long playful kinetic multi-textured faux-carved-wood puppet-on-strings pendant with pointed hat, filigree-capped collar and waist, and flexible geometric-shaped limbs. Structured with three chains, notice the additional texture on the slightly larger links of the upper necklace. Unlike the movie, as the marionette on our necklace wears a lace-like collar resembling the original character illustrated by Enrico Mazzanti in the book by Tuscany-born Carlo Collodi, The Adventures of Pinocchio (1883), the necklace otherwise could date no earlier than the turn of the 19th Century when the spring-ring clasp was first in use. Since that time, Pinocchio became one of the most reimagined characters in literature based on multiple authors whose protagonist was a similar anthropomorphic puppet. To be conservative about its age as the necklace is in good condition, we suspect that Austrian-born Hattie Carnegie commissioned it to accessorize her "hat-to-hem" custom-made or ready-to-wear clothing that frequently featured amusing figural subjects with articulated parts, such as mythical creatures, fauna or clowns. Before her death at the age 69 in 1956, not all of the pieces in the costume-jewelry parures of her eponymous brand since 1919 were signed, while based on experience we assume that at least clip earrings accompanied this creative necklace...

This dramatic necklace was most likely created in the 1970s. Condition Report: Excellent The Details... This necklace is constructed from brass. It features a cable chain. Suspende...

The Star Pendant Choker Necklace Onyx Gold Victorian Chain by J Dauphin is a modern heirloom that channels the power of celestial symbolism and antique style. This striking choker features an eight-pointed star pendant carved from natural black onyx, suspended from a bold Victorian-inspired gold-plated chain. The eight-pointed star, revered in many cultures, represents balance, spiritual renewal, and cosmic harmony. As a Memento Mori symbol, it serves as a daily reminder of life’s preciousness and the importance of intention and presence. Black onyx, known for its strength and protective qualities, grounds the wearer, supports mental clarity, and wards off negative energy—making this necklace as empowering as it is beautiful. Handcrafted with a rich 14k gold-plated finish, this necklace blends Victorian mourning jewelry traditions with a contemporary, unisex edge. Wear it as a spiritual talisman, a statement layering piece, or a meaningful gift for those drawn to celestial, symbolic, or Gothic jewelry...

The pendant consists of white and pool blue vintage German glass beads and is finished with an 18-inch gold-filled chain. The beads are new old stock vintage German glass beads tha...

Lorraine’s Bijoux offers a handmade vintage Bone African Naja pendant with brass trim necklace.Large Tibetan Brass Repousse beads, faceted orange coral, Tibetan Carnelian inlaid bead...

HENRY Necklace of hand carved and patinaed resin set with ruby pastes.The pendant hangs from ruby pate de verre and faceted aurora beads. Unusual ru...

A gorgeous elaborate pink glass beaded choker necklace and screw back earring set. The oval shaped beads are attached to netting on the underside for comfort and closes at the back with a flower beaded brass backed clasp. The earrings are screw back. Made in Western Germany...

Massive Handmade Bib with Ceramic Beads made by Dona, Mexico in the 1960's. Large dog collar choker with handmade and hand hammered hoops in brass which ...

The necklace by Coppola e Toppo features a dramatic interplay of cobalt blue and light green crystal beads, arranged in a richly layered, braided design. Multiple strands of faceted ...

Early Maison Goossens for Chanel Elaborate Sautoir from the 1960's. Composed of intricate fine twisted and textured gilt chain stations ending in finely detailed filigree bead caps. ...

The shiny grey mica will infuse your style with a touch of refined mystique, making you feel effortlessly chic and confidently captivating. Elevate your look with an air of unique al...

A signature emblem of the House, the initials of its founder Guccio Gucci define this necklace, embellished with heart-shaped crystals. Adding a refined feel, sparkling crystals fram...

This necklace is composed of lavender oval pearls with artisan made hearts made from black Tahitian shells. The black Tahitian heart shells gives such beautiful iridescent shine, it'...

Elegant YSL Haute Couture 2 Toned Collar, a deceptively simple design composed of hundreds of filigreed caps mounted on top of one another in high contrast tones of gold and silver t...

Gemstone Type : Citrine Weight : 24.15 Carats Dimensions : 20.2x13.8x11.1 mm Clarity : Loupe Clean Origin : Brazil Color: Yellow Shape: Emerald Cut: Pixel Cut...

This is a 1960s vintage multi-strand necklace designed by Coppola e Toppo, a celebrated Italian jewelry design duo known for their intricate beadwork. The necklace is crafted with mu...

Memento Mori Style Heart Necklace Diamond and Black Enamel Chain: Gold plated Brass Heart: Gold plated Silver Gems. White Diamond and white pearls Designer: J DAUPHIN Length: 28 i...

Add a touch of luxuriousness to your look with the Egyptian necklace. This ornate choker features an exquisite handmade design, delicately crafted using color to create a truly uniqu...

Robert Lee Morris Verdigris Avalon Belt/Necklace made in 1983. This design was part of a bigger collection that was entitled Avalon, and inspired by the book by Marian Bradley Zimmer...

Black Enamel Heart Pendant Chain Necklace White Diamond and Pearls, Memento Moris Style Designer: J DAUPHIN Materials: – Chain: Gold-plated brass, hand-painted black enamel (also a...

Coral Orange Lion Paw Scallop Shell pendant necklace from MWLC. The natural shell decorated with a gilt plate bronze fern frond, decorated with p...

These seven wonderful, particularily large early 19th century oval lava cameos, measuring from 3,5cm x2,6cm to 2,2cm x 3 cm, are mounted in gilt metal. They have been assembled to m...

Lorraine’s Bijoux has on offer a Vintage, Wedgewood, Jasperware, black and white oval pendant necklace. The fabulous beads are vintage Venetian glass African trade beads...

Roger Scemama antique silver and brcopper metal abstract brutalist starburst pendant- brooch necklace. Completely hand made in France, 1950's. Exce...

Miriam Haskell Coral Chip Necklace from the 1960's with gilt spacers. Raw genuine coral branch chips are spaced with gilt spacers with signature signed clasp. 29" total. 1960's USA. ...

Collectible Antique French festoon Necklace with foiled glass paste stones and bresse enamel cabs set on an ornate gold gilded brass panels with light en...

Givenchy Bunny Mellon Haute Couture multi bead loose torsade necklace. Of nacre resin pearls and golden beads which rests high on neck to wear with the se...

Lorraine’s Bijoux offers a highly unusual 19th century English, goldfilled and Amethyst brooch pendant necklace. This is a wonderful example of Mid Victorian jewelry being repurposed...

Medal Virgin Mary Chain Necklace Vintage Medal, Designer of Chain : J Dauphin 14k Gold Plated Brass Chain and Silver Medal Symbols or medals can become a powerful tool in our arse...

A stunning Milagros kinetic necklace hand made by Pal Kepenyes, a Hungarian Sculptor who worked in Acapulco, Mexico and created jewelry in the Brutalist style. The necklace has many rows of figures and objects as well as a hand made chain...

This vintage brass sacred bull necklace is a powerful statement piece steeped in symbolism and artisanal charm. Featuring multiple bold brass pendants of...

21 pcs White Diamonds Single Cut set in 7 Hearts Chain Choker Necklace Designer: J DAUPHIN Length: 16 Inches Material: 18 K Gold Plated Necklace White diamonds hold significant...

Lorraine’s Bijoux has on offer an Artisan made French Glass pendant from Amboise; France. This piece is one of a kind and has a wonderful combination of colors and the Delft blue and...

Robert Lee Morris Wabi Sabi Necklace For Donna Karan 1986. this is an original necklace created for a Donna Karan Spring 1986 runway show, comprised of Wabi Sabi colors and component...

Unusual and striking Monet retro link chain necklace. The five strands of rose gold, yellow gold and silver accented with one and a half strands of...

Magnificent, large Miriam Haskell necklace of signature faux pearl micro beaded flower heads set on bases of water lilies and lily pads in Hask...

This bold strong and emphatic design is constructed of large oxidized brass domes, linked into a high fitting collar. Looking medieval and luscious, like out of a a movie, this beautiful and very simple necklace commands attention even in its more subtle tones of warm bronze. It is Wabi Sabi, and is great as part of a layering of chains around the neck for a spectacular fashion moment. Each high dome is finished off with two wire bands at the bottom edge. Constructed in 1984, the rich coloration of the brass is warm and comforting. Wabi Sabi is the Japanese term that means aged, used, worn, filled with character and spirit through use, old, spirited, and Robert Lee Morris loves it. So much of his jewelry has the Wabi Sabi quality, which is the opposite of glitz and sparkly bling so associated with jewelry in the first place. Morris spent 4 years living in Japan as a child, his father a USAF officer and pilot, and was very inspired by the beauty of traditional Japanese aesthetic and culture. Therefore one can see this exemplified in the colors of the metal and materials he uses; tarnished and oxidized brass, copper bronze and sometimes even darkened silver. The occasional use of leather or Elk skin...

Italian Etruscan revival locked. This is a gorgeous antique medallion-locket created in Italy in the 19th century, circa 1870. The locket has been made up in an oval shape in the Etruscan revival style and carefully crafted in 18kt gilded brass with high polished finish. The medallion locket is decorated with the inlaid portrait of an ancient Etruscan queen, which is dressed with colorful robes, crowned with a diadem and wearing earrings accented with two rose cut diamonds. The profile of the queen is fully decorated with the difficult polychrome enamel technique, called Peinture sur émail. It is fitted with a three-barrels hinge with a snap lock to open and close and a ring bale to wear in a chain. The craftsmanship of this one-of-a-kind piece of jewelry, is exceptional and well done, and surely this will be a great conversation piece. Country: Europe, Italy. Period & Style: Etruscan Revival 1870. Diamonds: Mount in inlaid settings, with 2 European rose cut diamond, 0.07 carat, white colorless F/G color, VS/SI clarity. Weight: 26.95 Grams, (17.30 Dwt). Measurements: 31 mm by 52 mm by 6 mm (1.22 x 2.05 x 0.24 Inches). Hallmarks: Unmarked as usual. Peinture sur émail technique Peinture sur émail is a French type of painting with enamels. It was developed at the end of the 15th century in Limoges, France. In this technique, a slightly convex, metal plate is covered with a fondant of uniform color which was fired to produce a vitreous base for the drawing. On this, the artist starts applying color after color in thin layers onto the base color with a paintbrush. It is vital that one starts with the colors of the highest flowing temperature to avoid the diffusing of colors at a later stage. Between every step, the intermediate depiction needed to be fired in the oven to fixate the colors, sometimes up to 20 rounds of heating are needed for the final result. In this manner, one was able to rival the oil painters of the day and artists such as Leonard Limousin were in high regard, often even employed by the patrons of the arts. Needless to say, that this type of enameling was no longer in the realm of goldsmiths but belonged to those with exceptional drawing skills. At the end of the 16th century the abundance of workshops that produced these artifacts – these could be a meter high – created a decline in craftsmanship which is usually associated with popular cultures. Like Castellani rescued the micro mosaics from general decline by giving it a new impulse so did Jean Toutin from Blois, France give a new incentive to painted enamel in the early 17th century by introducing miniature paintings on enamel of high quality. In Geneva, Switzerland, there was a culture of painting enamels from the late 15th century as well, but the industry only really started to flourish mid-17th century. They specialized in portraits as in scenery images which soon attracted the attention of customers from all over Europe and beyond. Famous Genevan names of the day were Jean Petitot, Jean Etienne Liotard...

Made in America. Plated on Brass Additional Information: Material : Brass Dimensions: W 5.5 x L 6.5 x H 0.38 in

This one of a kind brass construction is part of the Armor family that Robert has created throughout the years, from 1974 until 2019. The impact that this piece has is strictly for the red carpet or rock concert...

This one of a kind gold plated brass piece was never sold as part of the wholesale collection of Robert Lee Morris. It instead was carved and created by him in 1983 when he was experimenting with so many new ideas. The fascinating mask carving could be both an exaggerated bird scull or part of a jet propulsion engine, the design is modern and futuristic. This is part of the large group called Casual Gold, quirky, unique experimental pieces during Morris's growing years. There is a large body of jewelry created by Robert Lee Morris called Casual Gold. They are made by rearranging the many RLM vocabulary components into new and interesting configurations. All necklaces...

Heart White Diamond Heart Pendant Chain Necklace White Pearl Victorian Style Designer: J DAUPHIN Length: 28 inches White diamonds hold significant spiritual meaning by embodying ...

Brass 1960-1970 Finland Seppo Tamminen Merkkikeskus Sorsa Necklace Maker Merkkikeskus Sorsa Finland 1960-1970 Similar Seppo Tamminen's jewelery is described in the book New Design in...

The pendant consists of translucent blue and green vintage German glass beads and is finished with a 20-inch gold-filled chain. The beads are new old stock vintage German glass bea...

Like elegant multi-pendant festoon necklaces from the mid-1800s, this antique 19th-Century Italian glass choker collar by the Seguso family that founded Vetri d'Arte on the Venetian island of Murano features three one-inch-drop pendants, which here include reddish pink mouth-blown glass balls with golden reflections that are supported by brass findings and unusual ecru glass links that form a chain. The handcrafted closed links appear to be miniature versions of the style made famous in the next century by the family's descendant Archimede Seguso (1909-1999), whom Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel worked...

Rare Schreiner long tapered three sided triangular pendant necklace in blackened metal. Each triangle panel is composed of prong set signature long faceted pointy marquise stones in...

This antique French Belle-Epoque-period set incudes eight rare ball-cut moonstones beaded on a delicate gilt choker necklace and wire-hook dangle earrings for pierced ears. The necklace features two 12mm gilt-filigree-capped moonstones with atypical adularescence that glows as a sharply defined wide bluish-white circle below the surface. The pearl-like grayish-white moonstones are among beaded stations of cut-glass crystal that are spaced with tiny gilt balls. The matching earrings each feature a 6mm moonstone like the additional four on the necklace. The luminous moonstone beads look like quahog-clam pearls...

This Oscar de la Renta 22K gold-plated necklace features an intricate composition of interlocking ginkgo leaves hand-cast in pewter and assembled with brass elements. The sculptural ...

Miriam Haskell signature baroque pearl and Russian gold plate long pendant necklace. Chain of small baroque pearls with minute gold plated cut ste...

Bicolor Tourmaline Carved Weight: 119.05 Carats Dimension: 40x29x9.7 Mm Origin: Africa Color: Dark Neon Blue Shape: Carving Quality: AAA Certificate: On demand Drilled: Yes . Bicolor...

Miriam Haskell gilt and faux pearl necklace composed of a finely woven gilt brass circle mounted on a signature gilt filigree bordered by a twisted rope of small faux pearls. Four...

Unusual Victorian Tiger Festoon necklace with natural baroque river pearls decoration. Gold filled metal. 1900's USA. 15" length. Beautiful detail...

Emerald Silver Medal Chain Necklace Medal Chain Necklace Virgin Mary 3 pieces Emerald Solid Silver Pendant and Gold Plated Brass Chain Necklace Designer: J DAUPHIN Sterling Silve...

Onyx Star Pendant Choker Necklace 14k Gold Plate Length: Long 16" Designer: J DAUPHIN Eight-Pointed Star Onyx Pendant – Memento Mori Choker Necklace This choker features an ei...