Art Nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
20th Century Spanish Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Early 1900s French Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold, 18k Gold
Late 20th Century Taiwanese Art Nouveau Jewelry
Brass
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Ruby, Opal, Emerald, White Diamond, Diamond, Ci...
20th Century British Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Emerald, 14k Gold, Silver
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold
1990s Spanish Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Freshwater Pearl, 9k Gold...
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Silver, Sterling Silver
Early 1900s Austrian Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Garnet, Silver
1920s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Labradorite, Marcasite, Turquoise, Sterling Silver
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Garnet, Moonstone, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Silver, Sterling Silver
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold, 15k Gold
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Silver
Late 19th Century Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Cultured Pearl, 14k Gold
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
1940s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Copper
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Jade, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Ruby, Rock Crystal, Emerald, White Diamond, Dia...
2010s Belgian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
Early 2000s European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Lapis Lazuli, Gold, 14k Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1980s German Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold Plate
1890s Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Coral, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum
Early 1900s European Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Platinum
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s European Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Diamond, Silver, 18k Gold
Early 1900s Austrian Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Garnet, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
South Sea Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Pearl, White Diamond, Diamond, Amethyst...
Early 1900s Chinese Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Coral, Silver
1980s German Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold Plate
2010s African Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Diamond, Platinum
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Silver, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Quartz, Tourmaline, Yellow Sapphire, Sapphire, Peridot, Black Diamond, W...
20th Century European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Yellow Gold
1980s German Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold Plate
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold
1950s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Freshwater Pearl
2010s Art Nouveau Jewelry
Opal, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Emerald, Gold Plate, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Brazilian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
1980s French Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold Plate
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Silver, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 19th Century European Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Silver, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Freshwater Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Pearl, Emerald, White Diamond, Diamond...
1960s German Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold Plate
21st Century and Contemporary European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Emerald, Pearl, 22k Gold
1950s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Spinel, Black Spinel
Late 19th Century British Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Opal, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Afghan Art Nouveau Jewelry
Other, Tourmaline, Multi-gemstone
1990s French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Enamel
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Enamel