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14k Enamel Nouveau

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Art Nouveau Lapis Lazuli & Enamel 14k Gold Cocktail Ring
Located in Santa Barbara, CA
. Condition: Good (minor loss to enamel-see photos) Era: Art Nouveau/Early Art Deco Year: 1910-1920 Metal: 14k
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings

Materials

Lapis Lazuli, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Iris Flower Enamel Pendant Necklace 14k Gold Antique
Located in New York, NY
GREEN ENAMEL IRIS FLOWER IN 14 KARAT GOLD. THE IRIS FLOWER IS SET IN AN ELEGANT IRIS LEAF DESIGN WITH
Category

Antique 19th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau 1900s French 14K Gold Drop Blue Celestial Enamel Earrings Hallmark
Located in Santa Monica, CA
Art Nouveau 1900s French 14K Gold Drop Blue Celestial Enamel Earrings Hallmark Hallmark, 14K
Category

Antique Early 1900s French Art Nouveau Dangle Earrings

Materials

14k Gold, Enamel

Antique Art Nouveau 14k Gold Amethyst Pearl & Enamel Dangle Lavalier Pendant
Located in Montclair, NJ
: Antique, Art Nouveau. Slightly damage on enamel & small chip on amethyst. Original finish & patina
Category

Vintage 1910s Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Amethyst, Pearl, 14k Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Krementz 14k Gold Peridot Pearl & Enamel Dangle Lavalier Pendant
By Krementz & Co
Located in Montclair, NJ
Material: Solid 14k Yellow Gold Weight: 4.50 Grams Chain Type: 0.7mm Curb Link Chain Length: 16.5 Inches
Category

Vintage 1910s Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, Peridot, 14k Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Orchid Flower OMC Diamond Enamel Necklace 14k Gold Antique
Located in New York, NY
THIS IS A GORGEOUS VICTORIAN - ART NOUVEAU PENDANT NECKLACE WITH A BEAUTIFUL GREEN ENAMEL ORCHID
Category

Antique 19th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Antique Art Nouveau 14K Yellow Gold Diamond Demantoid Enamel Lady Stick Pin
Located in Great Neck, NY
Beautiful Antique Art Nouveau 14K Yellow Gold Diamond Demantoid Enamel Lady Stick Pin. This
Category

Antique 1890s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Antique Art Nouveau 14K Gold Matte Enamel Seed Pearl & Leaf Wreath Brooch Pin
Located in Montclair, NJ
This beautiful antique brooch/pin was crafted during the art nouveau era in solid 14k yellow gold
Category

Vintage 1910s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Pearl, 14k Gold, Enamel

Antique Art Nouveau Necklace 14k Gold Amethyst Sawtooth Pearl Enamel Vintage
Located in Torrance, CA
Stylish and finely detailed Art Nouveau drop necklace (circa 1900s to 1910s) crafted in 14 karat
Category

Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Choker Necklaces

Materials

Amethyst, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau 14k Gold Blue Stone Diamond & Pearl Enamel Pin Brooch Pendant Chain
Located in Montclair, NJ
Mine Cut - Prong Set - 0.05ct (approx.) Material: Solid 14k Yellow Gold Weight: 2.7 Grams Chain Type
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, 14k Gold, Enamel

Antique Art Nouveau 14k Gold 2.4mm Pearl Floral Brooch Pin w/ Enamel Work
Located in Montclair, NJ
.) Material: Solid 14k Yellow Gold Weight: 2.08 Grams Clasp: Pin w/ Rotating Closure Overall Width: 17.3mm
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Pearl, 14k Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Flower Lily Pad Enamel Pearl Pendant Lavaliere Necklace 14K Gold
Located in New York, NY
ARE SET IN A GOLD SURROUND WITH LOVELY ART NOUVEAU DESIGN. THE PENDANT IS 14 KARAT YELLOW GOLD. THIS
Category

Antique 19th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Orchid Flower Pendant OMC Diamond Enamel Charm 14K Gold Victorian Art Nouveau
Located in New York, NY
THIS IS A VICTORIAN - ART NOUVEAU LAVALIERE PENDANT IN THE FORM OF A FLOWER OR ORCHID - SO STUNNING
Category

Antique Early 19th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, 14k Gold, Enamel, Gold, Yellow Gold

Art Nouveau Diamond Enamel 14 Karat Yellow Gold Pan Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
and bright Stamped 14k for 14 karat gold Circa: 1905 Top measures: 9/16 x 1/2 inch Total length: 2
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Nouveau 1900s American Seed Pearl Tassel Drop Stud Enamel Earrings Hallmark 14K
Located in Santa Monica, CA
Art Nouveau1900s American Seed Pearl Tassel Drop Stud Enamel Earrings Hallmark, 14K Weighing 12.7
Category

Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Chandelier Earrings

Materials

Pearl, Enamel

Art Nouveau Diamond Enamel 14K Rose Gold Flower Antique Watch Pin Brooch Pendant
Located in North Attleboro, MA
This stunning Art Nouveau Diamond Enamel 14K Rose Gold Flower Antique Convertible Brooch Pendant is
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Rose Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Pansy Forget-Me-Not Flower OMC Diamond Enamel Pendant 14K Gold
Located in New York, NY
SET IN AN ELEGANT GOLD RIBBON SURROUND WITH LOVELY ART NOUVEAU DESIGN. THE PENDANT IS 14 KARAT YELLOW
Category

Antique 19th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Enamel Diamond Sapphire 14 Karat Gold Empress Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
diamonds Stamped 14K for 14 karat gold Head measures: 17.0 x 13.8 mm Total length: 2 1/2 inches Total
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow ...

Lovely Art Nouveau Enamel Violet
By Cressarrow
Located in New York, NY
Lovely Art Nouveau Enamel Violet brooch in 14K gold by Cressarrow, N.J. from the late 19th Century
Category

Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

14k Gold

Lovely Art Nouveau Enamel Violet
Lovely Art Nouveau Enamel Violet
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Art Nouveau Rose Cut Diamond Lily Pad Pendant Amethyst Enamel Charm 14K Gold
Located in New York, NY
, AND AMETHYST, IN 14K WHITE AND YELLOW GOLD WITH A GORGEOUS TRANSLUCENT GREEN ENAMEL LILY PAD LEAF AT
Category

Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Amethyst, Diamond, 14k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel, Gold

Art Nouveau French Enamel & Pearl Flower Brooch
Located in Montgomery, AL
enamel work & tiny seed pearls to accomplish the flower petal arrangement design. Era: Art Nouveau 1890
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Gold, 10k Gold, 14k Gold, Rose Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Diamond Enamel 14 Karat Gold Fairy Brooch, Circa 1900
Located in Philadelphia, PA
diamonds weighing approximately 0.18 carat Completed by a pin stem with closure Stamped 14K for 14 karat
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Pearl Plique-A-Jour Enamel 14 Karat Gold Gargoyle Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
translucent cream to white pliquè-a-jour enamel Clutching a round 3.0 mm button pearl; cream in color with
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Amethyst Ring with Enamel & Diamonds
Located in OVIEDO, AS
Art Nouveau Amethyst Ring with Enamel & Diamonds Art Nouveau jewelry is instantly recognizable by
Category

Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings

Materials

Amethyst, Diamond, 14k Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Diamond Emerald Enamel Pearl 14 Karat Gold Serpent Necklace
Located in Philadelphia, PA
featuring guilloche enamel Enamel is iridescent white with a radiating burst motif - exhibiting no loss
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Pearl, Gold, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold, Enamel

Riker Brothers Enamel Diamond Ruby 14 Karat Gold Spider Art Nouveau Brooch
By Riker Brothers
Located in Philadelphia, PA
closure Stamped 14K for 14 karat gold Maker's mark for Riker Brothers Circa: 1905 Measures: 1 1/4 x 1
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Diamond, Enamel and Gold Locket
Located in New York, NY
An American Art Nouveau enamel, 14 karat bloomed gold and diamond pendant locket. The figure on the
Category

Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, 14k Gold, Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Diamond, Enamel and Gold Locket
Art Nouveau Diamond, Enamel and Gold Locket
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W 1.25 in L 2 in
14K Yellow Gold Art Nouveau Vintage Red Green Enamel Pin Converted Pendant R4141
Located in Osprey, FL
♥ 14K Yellow Gold Art Nouveau Vintage Red Green Enamel Pin Converted to Pendant ♥ Solid 14k
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Pendant Necklaces

Materials

14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Diamond Enamel 14 Karat Yellow Gold Pansy Antique Flower Brooch
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Pendant brooch is designed as a pansy flower with delicately painted matte enamel petals. Opaque
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Riker Brothers Art Nouveau Ruby Diamond Guilloche Enamel 14 Karat Gold Brooch
By Riker Brothers
Located in Philadelphia, PA
stem with locking closure and looped bale. Stamped 14k for 14 karat gold. With maker's mark for Riker
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

A.J. Hedges Art Nouveau Pearl Enamel 14 Karat Yellow Gold Pansy Antique Brooch
Located in Philadelphia, PA
. Completed by hinged pin stem with locking closure. Stamped 14k for 14 karat gold. With maker's mark. Circa
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Enameled Woman
Located in Riverdale, NY
Lovely Art Nouveau brooch of a womans head shrouded in pink enameled poppies, set in 14k gold. Each
Category

Antique Late 19th Century American Victorian Brooches

Materials

14k Gold

Art Nouveau Enameled Woman
Art Nouveau Enameled Woman
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Antique Art Nouveau Enamel Flower Gold Stick Pin
Located in Miami Beach, FL
Art Nouveau floral 14K yellow gold stick pin featuring a natural pearl popping out of an enamel
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Natural Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Enamel

Antique Art Nouveau Enamel Flower Gold Stick Pin
Antique Art Nouveau Enamel Flower Gold Stick Pin
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H 2.37 in W 0.5 in D 0.5 in
Antique Art Nouveau 14K Yellow Gold Blue Enamel Pansy Flower Diamond Brooch
Located in Houston, TX
gold diamond art-nouveau (1890-1910) brooch / pendant. The metal was tested and determined to be 14K
Category

Antique 1890s Unknown Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Mine Cut Diamond Enamel 14 Karat Yellow Gold Pansy Antique Brooch
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Pendant brooch is designed as a pansy flower with delicately painted matte enamel petals. Opaque
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

White Diamond, Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Enamel, Diamond & Pearl Pendant - Brooch Necklace
Located in Danvers, MA
Offered is a beautifully detailed Art Nouveau period enamel Pendant - Brooch Necklace. Set with
Category

Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, 14k Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Pansy Forget-Me-Not Flower OMC Diamond Enamel Pendant 14K Gold
Located in New York, NY
THIS IS A GORGEOUS VICTORIAN - ART NOUVEAU PENDANT WITH A BEAUTIFUL LAVENDER, CREAM AND BLUE ENAMEL
Category

Antique 19th Century Unknown Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Enamel, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Art Nouveau Enamel 14 Karat Yellow Gold Antique Flower Brooch
Located in Philadelphia, PA
painted with basse-taille enamel over linear engraving Matte iridescent yellow and pink with red veining
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Enamel Art Nouveau Maiden Woman Brooch 14 Karat Gold, circa 1900
Located in New York, NY
A spectacular Art Nouveau brooch with images of three maidens in 14 Karat Gold with fine Enamel
Category

Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Exquisite 14k Yellow Gold Enamel Leaf with Diamond Pin
Located in New York, NY
Adorn yourself with the exquisite beauty of this 14k yellow gold enamel leaf with diamond pin. This
Category

Vintage 1980s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau 14 Karat Brooch Dated 1904 Chrysoprase Citrine Enamel Brooch
Located in Munich, Bavaria
and deep orange are mounted in 14 karat gold . The brooch is decorated with blue and green enamel
Category

Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Citrine, Gold, 14k Gold, Enamel

Antique Art Nouveau Lily Brooch 14 Karat Yellow Gold Enamel Pearl
Located in Munich, Bavaria
was created around 1900 - 1905 and is made out of 14 karat gold. The flower petals are covered with
Category

Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Enamel

Russian Art Nouveau Gold Enamel Pill Box
Located in New York, NY
Rare and unusual Art Nouveau 14K two tone gold and enamel pill box. It features an enamel top with
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Russian Art Nouveau Boxes and Cases

Materials

18k Gold

Russian Art Nouveau Gold Enamel Pill Box
Russian Art Nouveau Gold Enamel Pill Box
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H 0.5 in W 1.19 in D 1.25 in
Art Nouveau Goddess Maiden Woman Rose Flower Enamel Pendant Brooch Necklace
Located in New York, NY
This is a museum quality Art Nouveau, 14 Karat Gold, Enamel and Baroque Pearl Pendant-Brooch
Category

Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

1900s Art Nouveau Enamel Diamond Gold Brooch Vienna Austria
Located in Vienna, AT
Art Nouveau Brooch Vienna, made c. 1900 14 Carat Gold / 585 (checked) Yellow Gold, covered
Category

Antique Early 1900s Austrian Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, 14k Gold

Art Nouveau Butterfly Pendant Brooch OMC Diamond Enamel 14 Karat Gold
Located in New York, NY
A wonderful and rare early Art Nouveau Brooch Pendant in the form of a Butterfly. The magnificent
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Enamel

Antique Art Nouveau Girls Enamel Painting 14 Karat Gold Bar Brooch Three Maiden
Located in Munich, Bavaria
made out of 14 karat yellow und rose gold. The design shows in relief three happy looking Art Nouveau
Category

Antique 1890s American Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

14k Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Yellow Gold, Enamel and Diamond Stick Pin
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Product details: Featuring 14K yellow gold, enamel face design with diamond detail. Total weight
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau More Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Pearl Grape Cluster Vine Enamel Pendant Necklace Antique Gold
Located in New York, NY
THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL ANTIQUE ENAMEL JEWELS WE HAVE SEEN. THE VICTORIAN - ART NOUVEAU
Category

Antique 19th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, 10k Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold, Enamel

Enamel Orchid Flower Pendant Necklace Or Brooch Gold Victorian Art Nouveau
Located in New York, NY
THIS IS AN ANTIQUE VICTORIAN - ART NOUVEAU LAVALIERE PENDANT OR BROOCH IN THE FORM OF AN ORCHID
Category

Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, Gold, 10k Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Pansy Heart Plique-a-jour Enamel Flower Pendant 14 Karat Gold
Located in New York, NY
THIS IS A LOVELY ART NOUVEAU PENDANT NECKLACE WITH A BEAUTIFUL LAVENDER, CREAM, GREEN AND BLUE
Category

20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Coral Cameo Enamel Brooch Pin 14 Karat Gold Maiden Flower
Located in New York, NY
Enamel Flower and Leaf Design in 14 Karat Gold in a monumental four inch length. The Coral Cameo is
Category

Antique 19th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Coral, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Antique Art Nouveau Opal Diamond Enamel Gold Flower Stick Pin
Located in Munich, Bavaria
and five smaller old cut diamonds. Opals and diamonds are mounted in 14 k gold. The opal flower is
Category

Antique 1890s Unknown Art Nouveau More Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, Opal, 14k Gold

Art Nouveau 1900 Edwardian Enamel Orchid Flower Brooch In 18Kt Yellow Gold
Located in Miami, FL
Edwardian art nouveau enamel Orchid brooch. An exceptional three-dimensional piece, created in
Category

Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Gold, 14k Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Larter & Son Art Nouveau Enamel Pearl 14 Karat Gold Antique Pansy Pendant Brooch
By Larter & Sons
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a dimensional pansy flower painted with enamel Opaque white, blue, yellow, and maroon
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Pink Enamel Flower Pearl Necklace 14 Karat Gold Pendant Or Brooch
Located in New York, NY
THIS IS A GORGEOUS VICTORIAN - ART NOUVEAU PENDANT NECKLACE WITH A BEAUTIFUL PINK AND CREAM ENAMEL
Category

Antique 19th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Vintage 14 Karat Gold Art Nouveau Enamel Portrait Mesh Bracelet with Diamonds
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
vintage Art Nouveau enamel portrait mounted on 18 karat yellow gold. The portrait features a green
Category

Antique 1890s Unknown Art Nouveau Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel

1.75 Carat Zircon Plique a Jour Enamel Art Nouveau Ring Magnificent Antique Gold
Located in New York, NY
enamel. Undoubtedly, plique-à-jour was a critical innovation in developing the Art Nouveau aesthetic in
Category

20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings

Materials

Zircon, Gold, Enamel, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Art Nouveau 1905 Edwardian Enameled Purple Flower Brooch 14Kt Gold with Diamond
Located in Miami, FL
Edwardian enameled purple flower brooch. Beautiful three-dimensional piece, created in America
Category

Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Yellow Gold, Enamel, Gold, 14k Gold

Art Nouveau Style Handcrafted Enamel Turquoise Yellow Gold Drop Horses Earrings
By Luigi Ferrara
Located in Naples, IT
These Earrings are made of 9K Yellow Gold. These Earrings are available also in 14K or 18K Yellow
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Stud Earrings

Materials

Turquoise, 9k Gold, Enamel, Yellow Gold

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14k Enamel Nouveau For Sale on 1stDibs

On 1stDibs, you can find the most appropriate 14k enamel nouveau for your needs in our varied inventory. Each design created in this style — which was crafted with great care and often made from gold, 14k gold and enamel — can elevate any look. You can easily find a 739 antique edition and 71 modern creations to choose from as well. If you’re looking for a 14k enamel nouveau from a specific time period, our collection is diverse and broad-ranging, and you’ll find at least one that dates back to the 19th Century while another version may have been produced as recently as the 21st Century. Creating a 14k enamel nouveau has been a part of the legacy of many jewelers, but those produced by Luigi Ferrara, Krementz & Co and Riker Brothers are consistently popular. While most can agree that any 14k enamel nouveau from our collection can easily elevate most outfits, but the choice of a diamond version from the 304 available is guaranteed to add a special touch to your ensemble. Today, if you’re looking for a round cut version of this piece and are unable to find the perfect match, our selection also includes brilliant cut and old european cut alternatives. There aren’t many items for men if you’re seeking a 14k enamel nouveau, as most of the options available are for women and unisex.

How Much is a 14k Enamel Nouveau?

The price for a 14k enamel nouveau starts at $150 and tops out at $49,500 with these brooches, on average, selling for $1,782.

A Close Look at art-nouveau Jewelry

Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.

Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.

The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.

Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.

This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.

In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.

Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.

Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.