Hublot Automatic

Born into the family behind the Binda Group watchmaking company, Italian watchmaker Carlo Crocco (b. 1944) decided to leave the dynasty to create his own company called MDM Genève in 1976. He spent the next few years developing his bold debut product: the Hublot watch.

Named for the French word for “porthole,” the Hublot, which debuted at the 1980 Baselworld watch and jewelry trade show, did indeed look like a porthole. What made the watch stand out, however, was its radical “fusion” approach to design — that is, the combination of a complex gold case with a band made from rubber. At the time, most high-end watches featured wristbands crafted from luxury materials, so the humble rubber material was a radical shift from fashion trends.

The rubber wristband wasn’t just made from any old rubber. Crocco reportedly spent $1 million developing the material to create the perfect blend of durability and style. The result was a watch that felt sportier than its competition but had all the technical makings of a luxury timepiece. Crocco’s risk paid off, with A-list clients from Prince Albert of Monaco to Jay-Z strapping Hublots to their wrists (the latter collaborated with the brand to produce two watches in 2013).

In 2004, watchmaker Jean-Claude Biver became CEO of the company, pushing the brand into the 21st century, including through major collaborations with athletes like sprinter Usain Bolt and artists like Shepard Fairey. In 2005, Hublot launched the Big Bang watch, a fresh statement on the brand’s inventive mixing of tradition and technology with options ranging from gold and a tire-tread-like rubber to a sapphire crystal casing. Other models include the Classic Fusion in 2008, which recalls the 1980s design, and the Manufacture Pieces (MP) collection, which features complex movements. The luxury Swiss watch company continues to innovate, all the while staying true to its “art of fusion” roots.

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Antique, new and vintage wristwatches have captured the hearts and minds of all manner of watch collectors as well as the watchmakers themselves — it's time you found your own.

Certain vintage watches for men and iconic watch designs for women are sought after not only because of their graceful proportions or innovative materials but also because of the illustrious histories of the houses that created them, histories that they stylishly embody.

Bulgari’s legendary Serpenti watch was on everyone’s list after the collection’s bold bracelet, which technically debuted after the timepiece, graced the wrist of actress Elizabeth Taylor. If anything, elaborately crafted timepieces — the unmistakably boxy silhouette of Cartier Tank watches, the elegant and minimal Calatrava designed by legendary Swiss house Patek Philippe — are even more effective than the shape we associate with traditional wristwatches.

Form watches — the all-encompassing moniker bestowed upon non-round watches — are making headlines and completing contemporary fashionable ensembles the world over. At the same time, both casual fans and careful collectors are drawn to the unbeatable charm of vintage styles, such as the icons designed by Omega that even James Bond can’t resist.

In the early days of watchmaking, watches were fragile enough that they necessitated protection from the elements. Now, wristwatches made of gold and steel can withstand the harshest climates — even 100 meters underwater, in the case of Rolex’s Submariner. Designer Gérald Genta, whose range of clients included Rolex, created for Audemars Piguet the first luxury sports timepiece to be made from stainless steel. First introduced in 1972, the Royal Oak was a perfect choice for blending the form and function that are now synonymous with sports watches.

Are you shopping for a wristwatch? It’s good to keep your needs as well as your specific personal style in mind: A smaller, subtle timepiece is a good fit for small wrists. When will you be wearing your new accessory? There’s a versatile model out there for everyday wear, while a rugged, feature-heavy watch is a safe bet if you’re prone to embarking on all-weather activities in the great outdoors.

Find antique, new and vintage wristwatches on 1stDibs.