Art Nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Mid-20th Century Danish Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sterling Silver
2010s Brazilian Art Nouveau Jewelry
18k Gold
Mid-20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Carnelian, Citrine, Gold-filled, Enamel
2010s Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Emerald, Multi-gemstone, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold
2010s Belgian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
1890s Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Opal, Black Opal, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Spanish Art Nouveau Jewelry
18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
2010s French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Crystal, Rubelite, Tourmaline, Silver, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold
Early 19th Century Italian Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
Mid-19th Century Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
14k Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Jade, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, 14k Gold, Rose Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Opal, 18k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, Emerald, White Diamond, Diamond, Sterling...
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Silver
2010s European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Silver
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Spanish Art Nouveau Jewelry
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Silver
2010s British Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
Late 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Hong Kong Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Gold, 18k Gold, Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Opal, Fire Opal, 18k Gold, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Tanzanite, 18k Gold, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Silver
1890s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sterling Silver, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Mid-19th Century European Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Diamond
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
2010s Belgian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Onyx, Ruby, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
2010s British Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Rose Gold
2010s French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Opal, Gold, 14k Gold
2010s Israeli Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold
1910s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Citrine, Sapphire, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Yellow Sapphire, Tourmaline, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, Emerald, Whi...
21st Century and Contemporary Spanish Art Nouveau Jewelry
19th Century Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Turquoise, 18k Gold, Silver
2010s Namibian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Garnet, Mandarin Garnet, 18k Gold