Brietling Chronomat

For pilots and others in love with flight, no brand is more closely associated with the world of aviation than Breitling. From the beginning, watchmaker Léon Breitling, who opened his shop in the Swiss Jura Mountains in 1884, was focused on chronographs and their uses in the burgeoning fields of sports, science and industry.

After Léon’s death, in 1914, his son Gaston continued along his father’s trajectory. An early fan of aeronautics, Gaston introduced one of the first wrist-worn chronographs, a welcome upgrade for pilots used to executing complex maneuvers while juggling a pocket watch.

In 1934, Gaston’s son Willy made another leap in the chronograph’s evolution, patenting the first wristwatch with two pushers — one to start and stop elapsed time and one to reset — a feature now taken for granted.

But perhaps the most significant development under Willy’s leadership was the Chronomat watch. Introduced in 1942, it featured a patented rotating slide-rule bezel for making calculations on the fly. This innovation led to the 1952 creation of the brand’s signature timepiece: the Breitling Navitimer.

Designed in partnership with the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association, it was adopted as the official watch of the AOPA in 1959 and remains the world’s most iconic pilot’s watch. Not content to rule just the air, Breitling developed dive watches as well, including the Superocean, released in 1957, and the Transocean, which followed in 1958. The house also took its show on the road, producing dashboard clocks and then watches in partnership with luxury automaker Bentley.

The Navitimer, however, still reigns supreme among pilots everywhere. Given the stature earned by Top Gun since its release — as well as the excitement around Top Gun: Maverick — it's never too late to pick up a vintage Breitling Top Gun Navitimer, displaying the official logo of the United States Navy Fighter Weapons School, for yourself or your favorite wingman.

Records show that, in Europe, by the 16th century, it was high time for portable clock devices. While wall-mounted time tellers and grandfather clocks were much more convenient than the sundials of ancient history, watches were becoming crucial for an increasingly connected society whose members learned that the latest advancements in technology meant they could carry devices that kept time to within a minute a day. Tragically, the first pocket watches — albeit an improvement on the accessories that preceded them, which dangled from a chain worn around the neck — didn’t help much as far as accuracy or portability. Focused on style over substance, the upper class frequently carried lavish pieces that ran hours behind. 

Modern-day timepieces are fashionable and functional. Watches have also migrated from owners’ pockets to their wrists. In the early days of watchmaking, watches were fragile enough that they necessitated protection from the elements. Now, watches made of gold and steel can withstand the harshest climates — even 100 meters underwater, in the case of Rolex’s Submariner. 

Indeed, although exceedingly practical, the watches of today are far from bland. Bulgari’s iconic Serpenti watch was on everyone’s list after the collection’s bold bracelet, which technically debuted after the timepiece, graced the wrist of actress Elizabeth Taylor. If anything, elaborately crafted timepieces — the unmistakably boxy silhouette of Cartier Tank watches, the elegant and minimal Calatrava designed by legendary Swiss house Patek Philippe — are even more effective than the shape we associate with traditional watches. You’ll always know what time it is because you won’t be able to tear your eyes away from your new accessory. 

Form watches — the all-encompassing moniker bestowed upon non-round watches — are making headlines and completing fashionable ensembles the world over. At the same time, many are drawn to the unbeatable charm of vintage styles, such as the icons designed by Omega that even James Bond can’t resist. 

When shopping for a watch, it’s good to keep your needs as well as your specific personal style in mind: A smaller, subtle timepiece is a good fit for small wrists. When will you be wearing your new accessory? There’s a versatile model out there for everyday wear, while a rugged, feature-heavy watch is a safe bet if you’re prone to embarking on all-weather activities in the great outdoors. 

Find exactly what you’re looking for in an unparalleled collection of antique, new and vintage watches on 1stDibs — we promise it will be worth your time.