John Hardy Modern Chain Necklace

After John Hardy left his home country of Canada to travel the world, he settled down in Bali, Indonesia, and became one of the world’s most-lauded designers of bracelets, necklaces, rings and other jewelry.

Hardy had studied at the Ontario College of Art & Design in Toronto before he set out globetrotting. In Indonesia, he became so smitten with the people, culture and landscape that he decided to stay, and in 1975 he started selling artisan jewelry and eventually designing his own pieces through his studies of local silversmithing. From the start, the focus was on time-honored jewelry-making traditions and details of craftsmanship.

In 1983, Hardy met an American named Cynthia Boesk who also had a small jewelry business. After they married, they merged their businesses and officially started John Hardy, making a name for themselves designing elegant and eclectic bracelets that reflected centuries-old Balinese techniques. In 1998, Italian-born French jewelry designer Guy Bedarida became the creative director of the company, staying on for 16 years and leading the brand in innovative new directions. Its Bamboo collection, with designs reminiscent of bamboo stalks, directs its sales toward planting bamboo seedlings in Indonesia, while the Kali collection takes its design cues from the distinctive pebbles found in Bali.

After learning about the harmful effects that silver mining has on the environment, Hardy became extremely committed to sustainable luxury business practices, promising that every piece is conflict-free and ethically produced during each step of the design process.

In 2017, the brand was among the jewelers challenged by Vogue Italia to craft pieces from the tagua nut in lieu of using elephant ivory and has used recycled sterling silver in its designs. Its first diamond-centered collection in 2019 concentrated on ethical sourcing and mines where workers are paid fairly. Although Hardy sold his business in 2007, it continues to operate with his name and adhere to the artisanal practices he promoted, including under jewelry designer Hollie Bonneville Barden, who served as creative director from 2016 to 2020. Along with online and global retail sales, the John Hardy Workshop and flagship Kapal Bamboo Boutique in Bali also offer the brand’s enduring designs from an open-air sustainable bamboo building.

Find a collection of John Hardy earrings, cuff bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

Rooted in centuries of history of adornment dating back to the ancient world, modern jewelry reimagines traditional techniques, forms and materials for expressive new pieces. As opposed to contemporary jewelry, which responds to the moment in which it was created, modern jewelry often describes designs from the 20th to 21st centuries that reflect movements and trends in visual culture.

Modern jewelry emerged from the 19th-century shift away from jewelry indicating rank or social status. The Industrial Revolution allowed machine-made jewelry using electric gold plating, metal alloys and imitation stones, making beautiful jewelry widely accessible. Although mass production deemphasized the materials of the jewelry, the vision of the designer remained important, something that would be furthered in the 1960s with what’s known as the “critique of preciousness.”

A design fair called the “Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes” brought global attention to the Art Deco style in 1925 and gathered a mix of jewelry artists alongside master jewelers like Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin and Boucheron. Art Deco designs from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels unconventionally mixed gemstones like placing rock crystals next to diamonds while borrowing motifs from eclectic sources including Asian lacquer and Persian carpets. Among Cartier’s foremost design preoccupations at the time were high-contrast color combinations and crisp, geometric forms and patterns. In the early 20th century, modernist jewelers like Margaret De Patta and artists such as Alexander Calder — who is better known for his kinetic sculptures than his provocative jewelry — explored sculptural metalwork in which geometric shapes and lines were preferred over elaborate ornamentation.

Many of the innovations in modern jewelry were propelled by women designers such as Wendy Ramshaw, who used paper to craft her accessories in the 1960s. During the 1970s, Elsa Peretti created day-to-night pieces for Tiffany & Co. while designers like Lea Stein experimented with layering plastic, a material that had been employed in jewelry since the mid-19th century and had expanded into Bakelite, acrylics and other unique materials.

Find a collection of modern watches, bracelets, engagement rings, necklaces, earrings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

We are fortunate to know much of the world’s long and dazzling history of necklaces, as this type of jewelry was so treasured that it was frequently buried with its owners.

Lapis lazuli beads adorned necklaces unearthed from the royal graves at the ancient Iraqi civilization of Sumer, while the excavation of King Tut’s burial chamber revealed a sense of style that led to a frenzy of Art Deco designs, with artisans of the 1920s seeking to emulate the elegant work crafted by Ancient Egypt’s goldsmiths and jewelry makers. 

In ancient times, pendant necklaces worn by royalty and nobles conferred wealth and prestige. Today, wearing jewelry is about personal expression: Luxury diamond necklaces exude confidence and can symbolize the celebratory nature of a deep romantic relationship, while paper-clip chain-link necklaces designed by the likes of goldsmith Faye Kim are firmly planted in the past as well as the present. Kim works exclusively with eco-friendly gold, and these fashionable, fun accessories owe to the design of 19th-century watch fobs. 

For some, necklaces are thought of as being a solely feminine piece, but this widely loved accessory has been gender-neutral for eons. In fact, just as women rarely took to wearing a single necklace during the Renaissance, men of the era layered chains and valuable pendants atop their bejeweled clothing. In modern times, the free-spirited hippie and counterculture movements of the 1960s saw costume-jewelry designers celebrating self-expression through colorful multistrand necklaces and no shortage of beads, which were worn by anyone and everyone. 

Even after all of these years, the necklace remains an irrefutable staple of any complete outfit. Although new trends in jewelry are constantly emerging, the glamour and beauty of the past continue to inform modern styles and designs. In a way, the cyclical history of the necklace differs little from its familiar looped form: The celebrated French jewelry house Van Cleef & Arpels found much inspiration in King Tut, and, now, their Alhambra collection is a go-to for modern royals. Vintage necklaces designed by David Webb — whose work landed him on the cover of Vogue in 1950, two years after opening his Manhattan shop — were likely inspired by the ornamental styles of ancient Greece, Mesopotamia and Egypt. 

On 1stDibs, browse top designers like Cartier, Tiffany & Co. and Bulgari, or shop by your favorite style, from eye-catching choker necklaces to understated links to pearl necklaces and more.