Loose Lab Created Blue Sapphire Pairs
2010s Hong Kong Modern Loose Gemstones
Sapphire
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2010s Hong Kong Contemporary Loose Gemstones
Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire
21st Century and Contemporary Hong Kong Contemporary Cocktail Rings
Pink Diamond, Diamond, White Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
2010s Hong Kong Modern Loose Gemstones
Ruby
1990s Beaded Necklaces
South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Cultured Pearl, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Artisan Loose Gemstones
Tanzanite
Vintage 1920s Unknown Link Necklaces
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Platinum
21st Century and Contemporary Sri Lankan Modern Loose Gemstones
Sapphire
Vintage 1930s French Art Deco Engagement Rings
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Platinum
21st Century and Contemporary American Contemporary Engagement Rings
Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Sri Lankan Contemporary Loose Gemstones
Spinel
21st Century and Contemporary Malagasy Artisan Loose Gemstones
Sapphire, Blue Sapphire
21st Century and Contemporary American Contemporary Solitaire Rings
Pink Diamond, White Diamond, Diamond, Rose Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Three-Stone Rings
Diamond
21st Century and Contemporary American Contemporary Engagement Rings
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Platinum
21st Century and Contemporary Engagement Rings
Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Platinum
2010s Hong Kong Contemporary Dangle Earrings
White Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
A Close Look at modern Jewelry
Rooted in centuries of history of adornment dating back to the ancient world, modern jewelry reimagines traditional techniques, forms and materials for expressive new pieces. As opposed to contemporary jewelry, which responds to the moment in which it was created, modern jewelry often describes designs from the 20th to 21st centuries that reflect movements and trends in visual culture.
Modern jewelry emerged from the 19th-century shift away from jewelry indicating rank or social status. The Industrial Revolution allowed machine-made jewelry using electric gold plating, metal alloys and imitation stones, making beautiful jewelry widely accessible. Although mass production deemphasized the materials of the jewelry, the vision of the designer remained important, something that would be furthered in the 1960s with what’s known as the “critique of preciousness.”
A design fair called the “Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes” brought global attention to the Art Deco style in 1925 and gathered a mix of jewelry artists alongside master jewelers like Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin and Boucheron. Art Deco designs from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels unconventionally mixed gemstones like placing rock crystals next to diamonds while borrowing motifs from eclectic sources including Asian lacquer and Persian carpets. Among Cartier’s foremost design preoccupations at the time were high-contrast color combinations and crisp, geometric forms and patterns. In the early 20th century, modernist jewelers like Margaret De Patta and artists such as Alexander Calder — who is better known for his kinetic sculptures than his provocative jewelry — explored sculptural metalwork in which geometric shapes and lines were preferred over elaborate ornamentation.
Many of the innovations in modern jewelry were propelled by women designers such as Wendy Ramshaw, who used paper to craft her accessories in the 1960s. During the 1970s, Elsa Peretti created day-to-night pieces for Tiffany & Co. while designers like Lea Stein experimented with layering plastic, a material that had been employed in jewelry since the mid-19th century and had expanded into Bakelite, acrylics and other unique materials.
Find a collection of modern watches, bracelets, engagement rings, necklaces, earrings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
Finding the Right loose-gemstones for You
Are you shopping for diamonds and other loose gemstones to create your own custom jewelry?
Why might you purchase a diamond or gemstone “loose” — that is, on its own, not mounted in a piece of jewelry? Perhaps you’re a connoisseur looking to acquire a unique investment. The scarcity of high-quality colored diamonds, for instance, especially pink diamonds, means that their value increases over time; the same is true of rare Kashmir sapphires and Burmese rubies. Far rarer than diamonds, Paraiba tourmaline, discovered only in the 1980s, is treasured as much for its extraordinary color as its scarcity, both of which contribute to its high value.
A more common scenario would be that you’re hoping to create a very special piece of custom jewelry, such as an engagement ring or a milestone-birthday present, and want to personally select the most beautiful, unusual, or ultra-rare stone you can find and afford. Doing so adds to the romance and substance of the gift and can be a part of the story told as the jewel is passed from generation to generation.
If this sounds like you, read on for tips on becoming one of the world’s savviest gem hunters.
Educate yourself: When buying any piece of gem-set fine jewelry, you should familiarize yourself with the factors that determine a stone’s price. This will enable you to streamline your search for the perfect gem and have intelligent, productive conversations with sellers.
There is a wealth of information online, such as our diamond-buying guide and this overview of colored gemstones for engagement rings. The buying guides of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), searchable by stone type, are also a widely trusted source for consumers venturing into the world of diamonds and gems for the first time.
Vet your vendor: If you peruse 1stDibs with any regularity, you know there is no shortage of vendors who deal in top-quality loose gemstones. (Read about our vetted sellers.) Finding a trustworthy, established dealer may be as easy as getting a recommendation from friends or family. And, although it may sound obvious, it pays to Google your candidates — and consult customer reviews — before making contact.
Harakh Mehta, designer and founder of the Mumbai, India–based fine-jewelry brand Harakh, has an innate understanding of proper client relations, especially when the customer is in unfamiliar territory. “Start chatting with the dealer, get to know them better," he says. "It’s very important to establish a comfort level. We never push a sale, as we want it to be a carefully considered purchase. So, if the client is not in a rush, we do it over a few virtual meetings or phone calls.”
Request documentation: The best dealers go to great lengths to furnish clients with documents verifying the quality rating, natural origin and provenance of a stone — showing, for example, that loose emerald hails from the famous Muzo mine in Colombia — and disclosing any treatments applied to enhance its appearance. (And who doesn't love emerald jewelry? The most valuable emeralds are the ones that have a deep bluish-green to true green color and no visible inclusions.)
If no grading report is available for a stone you are interested in, the dealer should be able to provide an authenticity document, such as an appraisal or info sheet, that has been signed by an in-house gemologist or professional appraiser. Google those names, too, for extra peace of mind.
Ask for videos and visuals: When transacting with a gem dealer online, you should always request real-time videos and photographs, since professional photos of a stone, usually on a white background, have likely been retouched for optimal presentation.
Read more about how to buy loose gemstones and find your dream gems today on 1stDibs.