Rolex Tiffany Pink

The name Baume & Mercier has been synonymous with quality watches for nearly two centuries. Studious vintage watch collectors might know the legendary Swiss watchmaker for a range of reasons — it created distinctive models for women as they struggled for equal rights during the heyday of the Art Deco era, its shaped watches during the 1970s would certainly impress today’s enthusiasts of tonneaus and the like, and its Riviera emerged when donning a sports watch made of steel was little more than a fantasy.

Louis-Victor Baume and his brother Célestin laid the foundation for Baume & Mercier in a small watch dealership in Les Bois, Switzerland. The pair expanded to London, England, where they established the Baume Brothers in 1851. For the last half of the 19th century, Baume Brothers wristwatches won timekeeping competitions and set accuracy records around the world.

Their chronographs and grand complication models earned them ten Grand Prix awards and seven gold medals at various international exhibitions. Revered for their superior accuracy, Baume won a competition hosted by the Kew Observatory with a tourbillon mechanism which went unchallenged for a full decade.

Baume & Mercier, Genève was established once Paul Mercier joined William Baume, then director of Baume Brothers, in 1918. Unafraid to challenge the status quo, Baume & Mercier began introducing unconventional shapes while upholding their values — an endeavor that garnered the brand the highest international distinction at the time, the Poinçon de Genève.

During the 1920s, when women wore watches of all kinds, from wristwatches to long-chained pendant watches to lapel watches, Baume & Mercier positioned themselves at the forefront of innovation and cultural relevance. The Marquise, an incredibly successful model, marked the start of a modern ladies’ watch line that demonstrated the luxury brand’s recognition of the growing social movement at the time. Women were fighting for rights and earning power as consumers and so demanded more than the simpler imitations of men’s designs available in the past. Baume delivered.

Piaget purchased Baume & Mercier in 1964, and the Galaxie and Stardust models followed the acquisition, furthering Baume’s reputation during the 1970s for marrying elevated, shapely designs with the newest innovations — winning them the Golden Rose of Baden-Baden. Baume & Mercier are now part of Richemont. 

 Find vintage Baume & Mercier watches, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

Contemporary jewelry is inextricably linked with the moment in which it is created, frequently reflecting current social, cultural and political issues such as environmental consciousness, identity and sustainability. It’s informed by fashion trends, from the chokers of the 1990s to the large chain necklaces of the early 2000s.

Jewelry is one of the oldest forms of adornment. Lockets made of silver or gold have been treasured gifts for hundreds of years, for example, and charm bracelets, which have existed since prehistoric times, didn’t become especially popular until the 19th-century reign of Queen Victoria. For many centuries, fine jewelry was used primarily to express wealth or status through lavish materials. Then, in the 1960s, a concept known as the “critique of preciousness” emerged, with jewelers creating pieces that did not get their value from gemstones or precious metals. Instead, it was the jeweler’s artistic vision that was prized and elevated.

This shift still informs Contemporary jewelry being made by artists today. Whether they are using cheap, found materials and working with provocative geometric shapes or seeking out the rarest stones, they are imbuing their work with meaning through their skills, techniques and ideas. Innovative designers such as Elsa Peretti, who popularized sculptural sterling-silver jewelry for Tiffany & Co., and David Yurman, who twisted metal into the simple yet striking Cable bracelet, have also influenced the direction of Contemporary jewelry’s forms and aesthetics.

Meanwhile, technological advancements like metal alloys and laser engraving have led to new possibilities in jewelry design. Now, edgy makers and brands as well as minimalist designers are pushing Contemporary jewelry forward into the 21st century.

Find a collection of Contemporary rings, earrings, necklaces and other jewelry on 1stDibs.