Vintage Panerai Luminor

The luxury Italian watchmaker Panerai began as a humble watch retail and repair facility opened by Giovanni Panerai (1825–97) in Florence in 1860. By the early 20th century, it had established itself as a major supplier of seaworthy timepieces for the Royal Italian Navy — its Radiomir collection, named for the radium-based paint that was patented by Panerai in 1916 and used on its luminous dials, was especially popular for underwater military missions. Panerai watches are visually distinctive, and the brand's statement-making oversize models are a big hit with today's collectors. 

In 1936, the first Radiomir watch powered by Rolex movements was presented to the Royal Italian Navy’s First Submarine Group Command; this design would go on to become one of the brand’s most iconic models with its luminescent numbers and large cushion-shaped steel case. (Panerai’s name, which is well-known to contemporary watch enthusiasts, is now essentially synonymous with behemoths up to 50mm.) Since then, the brand has introduced numerous models inspired by the ocean to meet the Navy's utility needs.

The Mare Nostrum model, which debuted in 1943, was a two-counter chronograph designed for deck officers. The self-illuminating tritium-based material Luminor was patented in 1949 and replaced the radium-backed Radiomir. The Luminor watches of the mid-century era, which also owed to military contracts, featured an innovative crown-protecting bridge. This is now one of Panerai’s oft-heralded design details.

In 1993, Panerai introduced its watches to civilian buyers. That year, the three designs that debuted to the general public — the Luminor, the Luminor Marina and the Mare Nostrum — saw Panerai effectively reimagining its historical models for the luxury market.

The company, which was acquired by the Richemont Group in 1997, continues to innovate, celebrating its 70th anniversary with a water-resistant diving watch with a luminescent dial inspired by French free-diver Guillaume Néry.

Today, Panerai is on the cutting edge of watch sustainability, with the Panerai Ecologico initiative including the almost entirely recycled Submersible eLAB-ID watch and a series of Luminor Marina models composed of a recycled-based steel alloy. Panerai manufactures its high-end, hand-wound watch calibers in a Swiss facility that opened in 2002, combining Swiss technology with its core elements of Italian design and a long, storied connection to the sea.

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Antique, new and vintage wristwatches have captured the hearts and minds of all manner of watch collectors as well as the watchmakers themselves — it's time you found your own.

Certain vintage watches for men and iconic watch designs for women are sought after not only because of their graceful proportions or innovative materials but also because of the illustrious histories of the houses that created them, histories that they stylishly embody.

Bulgari’s legendary Serpenti watch was on everyone’s list after the collection’s bold bracelet, which technically debuted after the timepiece, graced the wrist of actress Elizabeth Taylor. If anything, elaborately crafted timepieces — the unmistakably boxy silhouette of Cartier Tank watches, the elegant and minimal Calatrava designed by legendary Swiss house Patek Philippe — are even more effective than the shape we associate with traditional wristwatches.

Form watches — the all-encompassing moniker bestowed upon non-round watches — are making headlines and completing contemporary fashionable ensembles the world over. At the same time, both casual fans and careful collectors are drawn to the unbeatable charm of vintage styles, such as the icons designed by Omega that even James Bond can’t resist.

In the early days of watchmaking, watches were fragile enough that they necessitated protection from the elements. Now, wristwatches made of gold and steel can withstand the harshest climates — even 100 meters underwater, in the case of Rolex’s Submariner. Designer Gérald Genta, whose range of clients included Rolex, created for Audemars Piguet the first luxury sports timepiece to be made from stainless steel. First introduced in 1972, the Royal Oak was a perfect choice for blending the form and function that are now synonymous with sports watches.

Are you shopping for a wristwatch? It’s good to keep your needs as well as your specific personal style in mind: A smaller, subtle timepiece is a good fit for small wrists. When will you be wearing your new accessory? There’s a versatile model out there for everyday wear, while a rugged, feature-heavy watch is a safe bet if you’re prone to embarking on all-weather activities in the great outdoors.

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