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Cartier Ruby and Platinum Dress Set, circa 1950
By Cartier
Located in London, GB
A Cartier ruby and platinum dress-set, comprising a pair of cufflinks, four buttons and two studs
Category

Vintage 1950s British Retro Cufflinks

Materials

Ruby, Platinum

Cartier Ruby and Diamond Ring, circa 1975
By Cartier
Located in London, GB
Cartier ruby and diamond ring. Set with sixteen round brilliant cut natural unenhanced rubies to
Category

Vintage 1970s Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

Cartier Ruby Diamond 18K Yellow Gold Petite Dome Earrings
By Cartier
Located in Simpsonville, SC
The Cartier Ruby Diamond 18K Yellow Gold Petite Dome Earrings are a stunning example of Cartier
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Stud Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

French Cartier Ruby and Emerald with Diamond Border Band, 18K with Certificate
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
A French Cartier Ruby and Emerald with Double Diamond Border Band made in 18 Karat Yellow Gold with
Category

20th Century French Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold

Cartier Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond Cocktail Ring, circa 1975
By Cartier
Located in London, GB
Cartier ruby, sapphire and diamond cocktail ring. Set with five octagonal emerald-cut diamonds in
Category

Vintage 1970s French Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Gold, Platinum

Cartier Ruby and Diamond 18k Yellow Gold Cocktail Ring 1980's
By Cartier
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Vintage 1980's CARTIER Ruby and Diamond Cocktail Ring, 18kt Yellow Gold Oval Ruby 1.50 cts
Category

Vintage 1980s French Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Cartier Ruby and Diamond 18 Karat Yellow Gold Brooch, Circa 1950.
By Cartier
Located in London, GB
Cartier ruby and diamond 18 karat yellow gold brooch circa 1950. This elegant brooch comprises of
Category

Vintage 1960s French Post-War Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold

Cartier Ruby Diamond Bombe Gold Ring
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
Leave it to Cartier to create the perfect bombe style ring. A ruby and diamond ring by CARTIER Of
Category

Vintage 1980s French Dome Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold

Cartier Ruby and Diamond “Three Band” Ring
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
This glamorous ruby and diamond "Three Band" ring has unmistakable Cartier style and craftsmanship
Category

1990s French Cocktail Rings

Materials

White Diamond, Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold, Gold

Rare Vintage Cartier Ruby And Diamond Mimi 18k Yellow Gold Oval Cabochon Ring
By Cartier
Located in Birmingham, GB
Rare Vintage Cartier Ruby And Diamond 18k Yellow Gold Mimi Dome Ring. A very rare yellow gold
Category

Vintage 1970s French Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage Cartier Ruby and Gold Cufflinks, Circa 1950
By Cartier
Located in London, GB
A pair of vintage, Cartier, gold and ruby cufflinks. Each of the double links comprise an open
Category

Vintage 1950s French Cufflinks

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold

Cartier Ruby Diamond Yellow Gold Ring and Earrings
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
This elegant set of Cartier wrap earrings and band ring features faceted pear-cut rubies and
Category

1990s French Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Vintage Cartier Ruby and Blue Sapphire Flower Brooch
By Cartier
Located in London, GB
A beautiful vintage Cartier blue sapphire and ruby flower brooch set in 18k yellow gold. The
Category

1990s Modern Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Cartier Ruby Emerald Sapphire Gold Leaf Ear Clips
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
cut rubies, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds. Made in 18kt yellow gold. Cartier Paris, circa 1950.
Category

Vintage 1950s French Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Blue Sapphire, Emerald, Ruby, White Diamond, 18k Gold

Cartier Ruby Emerald Sapphire Gold Leaf Ear Clips
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
cut rubies, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds. Made in 18kt yellow gold. Cartier Paris, circa 1950.
Category

Vintage 1950s French Clip-on Earrings

Materials

White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold

Cartier Ruby Sapphire and Diamond Three-Stone Rings Set
By Cartier
Located in London, GB
Cartier. Both shanks have been crafted to be identical to one another with the first ring featuring a
Category

Vintage 1930s Three-Stone Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Platinum

Cartier Ruby Emerald Yellow Gold Wide Band Ring Sz 6
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
This rare Cartier ring features an elegant openwork wide band design crafted in 18k yellow gold and
Category

1990s French Band Rings

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, Yellow Gold

Cartier Ruby 18 Karat Yellow Gold Whimsical Gazelle Vintage Brooch
By Cartier
Located in Philadelphia, PA
curling horns and gold granulation throughout. Accented by a prong set round cut ruby eye - transparent
Category

Vintage 1960s American Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

1950's Cartier Ruby Diamond Platinum 18 Karat Gold Turtle Brooch
By Cartier
Located in Philadelphia, PA
rubies and diamonds Weighing collectively approximately 1.25 carat Completed by a hinged double pin
Category

Vintage 1950s Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Cartier Ruby Vintage Dachshund Dog Brooch - Yellow Gold 18k Pet Canine Pin
By Cartier
Located in Greensboro, NC
Brand: Cartier Era: Vintage Metal Content: 18k Yellow Gold & 18k White Gold Stone Information
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Estate Cartier Ruby 14K Yellow Gold Four Leaf Clover Clip Pendant Brooch
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
Beautiful estate Cartier four leaf clover with heart-shaped leaves and ruby gemstones clip pendant
Category

Mid-20th Century French Romantic Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

CARTIER 18k Yellow Gold & Baguette Ruby Cocktail Ring 1980s Vintage
By Cartier
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Cartier 18k Yellow Gold & Baguette Ruby Cocktail Ring Vintage 1980s Here is your chance to
Category

Vintage 1980s French Cocktail Rings

Materials

Ruby, Yellow Gold

Cartier 18k Gold & 2.25 Carat Ruby Solitaire Ring w/ 1.30 Carat Diamonds, Size 6
By Cartier
Located in Sherman Oaks, CA
Beautiful French Cartier Ruby, Diamond, Gold Ring The ring features an oval-shaped ruby cabochon
Category

20th Century French Modern Solitaire Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Gold

Cartier Diamond Ruby Bear Brooch Pin 18 Karat Gold Antique Signed
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
Indulge in a gorgeous and rare antique Cartier Bear Brooch in 18 Karat Gold with Ruby eyes and a
Category

20th Century Unknown Retro Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Cartier Exceptional Ruby and Diamond High Jewelry Necklace in 18K Yellow Gold
By Cartier
Located in Dallas, TX
Magnificent Cartier ruby and diamond necklace features 22 carats of dazzling diamonds and over 10
Category

Vintage 1980s French Choker Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Cartier Art Deco Ruby Clip Brooch
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
Cartier Art Deco Ruby Clip Brooch An Art Deco brooch by Cartier, adorned with round-cut diamonds
Category

20th Century American Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Cartier Midcentury Ruby Diamond Gold Cufflinks
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
Pair of Midcentury 18k gold cufflinks by Cartier, with rubies and approx. 0.70ctw G/VS diamonds
Category

Mid-20th Century French Cufflinks

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold

Cartier Yellow Gold Ruby Diamond Ring
By Cartier
Located in Dallas, TX
Cartier 18K oOo Ruby Diamond Ring with Certification Papers. Stamped Cartier 750
Category

Vintage 1980s French Modern Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold

1940s Cartier Diamond, Ruby Flower Brooch
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
An exquisite piece by Cartier dating back to the 1940s, comprising a brooch designed as two flower
Category

Vintage 1940s American Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Large Size Cartier Turquoise and Ruby Brooch
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
Large size Cartier Turquoise Brooch with Rubies and Diamonds Beautiful large size floral cartier
Category

Vintage 1960s French Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Turquoise

Cartier Retro Diamond and Ruby Floral Brooch
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
Cartier Retro Diamond and Ruby Floral Brooch A stunning example of Cartier’s mid-century design
Category

20th Century French Retro Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Cartier London, Diamond & Ruby Double Leaf Brooch
By Cartier
Located in Chicago, IL
Rubies on each leaf. Signed and Numbered Cartier London, with original Box.
Category

Vintage 1940s English Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Cartier Paris Diamond, Emerald, Ruby Earrings, 18k
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
A pair of Cartier Paris Diamond, Emerald and Ruby Earrings made in 18k Gold. Signed and numbered
Category

20th Century Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold

CARTIER Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire & Emerald Pendant Earrings
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
, Sapphires, Rubies, and Emeralds suspended from a pear-shaped fluted gold top. The top is adorned with a
Category

Vintage 1940s Drop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Estate Cartier Burmese Ruby and Diamond Ring
By Cartier
Located in Dallas, TX
Estate Cartier Art Deco 3.41 ct Burma No Heat Ruby Platinum Ring with GIA Certification , accented
Category

Vintage 1930s American Art Deco Three-Stone Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

CARTIER Caresse D'Orchidees Ruby Diamond Platinum Earrings
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
These stunning earrings from Cartier's High Jewelry Caresse D'Orchidees collection are designed as
Category

Early 2000s Lever-Back Earrings

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, Platinum

Cartier vintage ruby 18k yellow gold bee brooch
By Cartier
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Crafted in the 1990s, this vintage Cartier bee brooch is a whimsical yet luxurious piece
Category

1990s Modern Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

CARTIER Constellation Diamond Ruby Sapphire Yellow Gold Earrings
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
These gorgeous Cartier wrap earrings from the classic Constellation collection feature intertwined
Category

1990s Dangle Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Yellow Gold

Cartier French ruby diamond 18k yellow gold band
By Cartier
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
This striking vintage Cartier ring features a glowing 1.65 carat cabochon ruby flanked by two
Category

Vintage 1980s Modern Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Cartier diamond ruby 18k yellow gold bypass band
By Cartier
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
This vintage Cartier 18k yellow gold bypass band sparkles with 10 round brilliant cut diamonds
Category

1990s Modern Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Cartier diamond ruby 18k yellow gold bypass band
By Cartier
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
This vintage Cartier 18k yellow gold bypass band sparkles with 10 round brilliant cut diamonds
Category

1990s Modern Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Cartier 14k Yellow & Rose Gold Diamond Ruby Clip
By Cartier
Located in Flushing, NY
Cartier 14k Yellow & Rose Gold Diamond Ruby Clip Marked: CARTIER M . B . C Approximate Dimensions
Category

20th Century Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Rose Gold, Yellow Gold

Cartier Charming Onyx Diamond Ruby Gold Terrier Clip
By Cartier
Located in Riverdale, NY
Faithful terrier clip-brooch in 18k gold with onyx eye patch, bezel set diamond, and ruby eye by
Category

Vintage 1950s French Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, Ruby, 18k Gold

Cartier French Tanjore Diamond Ruby Emerald 18K Ring
By Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
Vintage Cartier Paris from 1990s collection, Tanjore.  Crafted from 18K yellow gold, this luxurious
Category

1990s French Modern Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold

Cartier Diamond Cabochon Ruby Emerald Platinum Necklace Suite
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
An exceptional suite by Cartier that dates back to the 1960s, comprising a necklace, bracelet, and
Category

Vintage 1960s French Dangle Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Platinum

Cartier Burmese Ruby and Diamond Ring, French, 1913.
By Cartier
Located in London, GB
Cartier Burmese ruby and diamond ring. Set with an oval cabochon natural unenhanced Burmese ruby in
Category

Vintage 1910s French Art Deco Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

Cartier La Baiser Du Dragon Ruby Gold Drop Earrings
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
Pair of 18k gold earrings by Cartier, from La Baiser du Dragon collection, featuring black cord
Category

20th Century French Drop Earrings

Materials

Ruby, Gold

Cartier, 18K Gold Ruby Sapphire Diamond Duck Brooch, GIA
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
0.13ct Rubies: Approximately 7.16ct Size: 4.2×2.1cm Weight: 15.88g Stamp: "CARTIER"
Category

Vintage 1960s Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Cartier Le Baiser Du Dragon Ruby Diamond Gold Ring
By Cartier
Located in Holland, PA
18k White Gold Le Baiser Du Dragon Diamond Ruby Ring by Cartier. With 56 round brilliant cut
Category

1990s French Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold

Cartier Paris Retro Ruby and Sapphire Gold Double Lipstick
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
carved gemstones (ruby and sapphire) all set in 18k yellow gold. Signed Cartier Paris, 750, maker mark
Category

20th Century French Artist Vanity Items

Materials

Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Gold

Cartier Amulette Diamond Ruby White Gold Large Pendant Necklace
By Cartier
Located in Holland, PA
18k White Gold Diamond Ruby Large Amulette Pendant Necklace by Cartier. With 70 Round Brilliant Cut
Category

Early 2000s French Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, White Gold

Cartier 18 Karat White Gold, Ruby and Diamond Ring
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
This Cartier White Gold, Ruby and Diamond ring centers one oval ruby approximately 3.34cts., and is
Category

Vintage 1980s American Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Cartier Ellipse Oval Ruby Yellow Gold 18 Carats Ring
By Cartier
Located in Vannes, FR
Cartier Ellipse Oval Ruby Yellow Gold 18 Carats Ring – Year:1992 Condition: Excellent condition
Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Contemporary Cocktail Rings

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Cartier Le Baiser Du Dragon Ruby Diamond Gold Ring
By Cartier
Located in Holland, PA
18k White Gold Le Baiser Du Dragon Diamond Ruby Ring by Cartier. With 56 round brilliant cut
Category

1990s French Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold

Vintage Cartier Round Red Ruby 18k Gold Multi Tone Hoop Earrings in Cartier Box
By Cartier
Located in Birmingham, GB
Vintage Cartier Vivid Red Ruby 18k Multi Tone Gold Hoop Earrings. Beautiful earrings featuring
Category

1990s Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Cartier Tutti Frutti Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire, Diamond Ring, 18K
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
A Cartier Tutti Frutti Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire, Diamond Ring made in 18 Karat Yellow Gold. The ring
Category

20th Century Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Cartier 18kt Gold Schnauzer Brooch with Diamond and Ruby Eyes
By Cartier
Located in Braintree, GB
Cartier 18kt Gold Schnauzer Brooch with Diamond and Ruby Eyes Made in France circa 1940-1950 This
Category

Vintage 1940s French Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold

Cartier Paris 1960s Lapis Lazuli Ruby Gold Bird Brooch Pin
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
Vintage, circa 1960s 18k gold bird brooch by Cartier, set with lapis lazuli and a ruby eye. The
Category

20th Century French Brooches

Materials

Lapis Lazuli, Ruby, Gold

Vintage Cartier Lapis Lazuli Ruby Yellow Gold Bird Pin Brooch
By Cartier
Located in Holland, PA
18k Yellow Gold Lapis Lazuli Ruby Brooch Pin by Cartier. With 1 lapis lazuli 10mm x 8mm 1 small
Category

1990s French Brooches

Materials

Lapis Lazuli, Ruby

Cartier Vintage 18K Yellow Gold 1.70ct Diamond and Ruby Necklace
By Cartier
Located in Southampton, PA
This vintage Cartier necklace is undeniably breathtaking. A 0.90 Ruby at the center serves as a
Category

21st Century and Contemporary More Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

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Cartier Ruby For Sale on 1stDibs

Find the exact cartier ruby you’re shopping for in the variety available on 1stDibs. Every item for sale was constructed with extraordinary care, often using Gold, 18k Gold and Yellow Gold. You can easily find a 763 antique edition and 86 modern creations to choose from as well. Finding the perfect cartier ruby may mean sifting through those created during different time periods — you can find an early version that dates to the 19th Century and a newer variation that were made as recently as the 21st Century. As it relates to this specific piece, our collection includes designs that are universally popular, but 1 Carat and 1.5 Carat carat weights, specifically, are sought with frequency. A round cut version of this piece has appeal, but there are also oval cut and cabochon versions for sale. There aren’t many items for men if you’re seeking a cartier ruby, as most of the options available are for women and unisex.

How Much is a Cartier Ruby?

The price for a cartier ruby starts at $479 and tops out at $850,000 with these rings, on average, selling for $7,716.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design

This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.

Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef & Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.

Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.

Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.

When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.

According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.

Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.