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Sterlin Silver Art

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Sterlin Silver Dragon Ring
By FERRUCCI
Located in New York, NY
The Dragon Ring, entirely made in Sterling Silver, no platings, incredibly detailed, made to order
Category

2010s American Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings

Materials

Silver

Sterlin Silver Dragon Ring
By FERRUCCI
Located in New York, NY
The Dragon Ring, entirely made in Sterling Silver, no platings, incredibly detailed, made to order
Category

2010s American Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings

Materials

Silver

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FERRUCCI for sale on 1stDibs

Emotion, vitality and an admiration for beauty are Italian jeweler Ferrucci's raison d’être. A family business at its core, Ferrucci is known for its impeccable fine jewelry collections and one-of-a-kind bespoke pieces. The family’s modern and Art Deco–style jewels reflect both their deep love for their mediums and mastery of the craft. 

Like many great things, the Ferrucci company started with a small dream. In 1985, spouses Nicola and Alessandra Ferrucci opened a small boutique in the tiny commune of Castel Bolognese. They founded the shop out of a desire to implement the best possible practices in their field. The couple’s son, Francesco Ferrucci, would become the driving force behind the company’s explosion onto the international jewelry-making scene.

Francesco inherited his parents’ love for the craft and went on to hone his skills in Vicenza. Here, in a place renowned for jewelry design, he studied wax sculpting, goldsmithing, metal casting and gem setting. Ferrucci went on to study under master jewelry makers throughout Europe, the United Kingdom and the United States. 

Today, the family works together to continue to explore jewelry forms and the possibilities of using their craft for good. A portion of the money they make from their designs goes to nonprofit organizations, giving each piece a greater depth of meaning. 

The Ferrucci style features modern, artfully balanced lines that converge into surprising shapes, often inspired by nature. Throughout the design and production process, the Ferruccis aim to imbue their creations with emotion and energy. Every handmade pendant necklace, drop earring and bridal ring celebrates imperfections, embraces contrasts and layers multiple meanings.

On 1stDibs, discover Ferrucci’s inimitable rings, necklaces, bracelets, earrings and watches.

A Close Look at Art-nouveau Jewelry

Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.

Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.

The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.

Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.

This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.

In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.

Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.

Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.

Finding the Right Cocktail-rings for You

A flashy symbol of wealth during the early 20th century, antique and vintage cocktail rings have gained broader appeal in the decades since for the hefty dose of glamour they bring to any ensemble.

Cocktail rings earned their name for their frequent appearances during glitzy cocktail parties at the height of the Prohibition era. Back then, these accessories were seen not only as statement pieces but as statements in and of themselves. They openly represented a sense of freedom and independence as well as a demonstration of opulence. After all, the 1920s heralded the Harlem Renaissance and Art Deco design, and a slew of social and cultural shifts meant that women in particular were breaking from pre–World War I conventions and embracing newfound freedoms to express themselves as individuals.

Women expressly wore cocktail rings on the fingers of their right hand versus the left, which was “reserved” for an engagement ring or wedding band, accessories definitely paid for by a suitor. And for cocktail rings, the bigger the colored gem at the center — which is usually mounted in a high setting — and the more elaborate the design, the stronger the likelihood of being noticed.

Cocktail rings remained a popular piece of jewelry for women until the 1930s, when the Great Depression and the onset of war marked a change in behaviors nationwide. While the 1960s and ’70s saw a return in visibility for the accessory, it wasn’t until the 1980s that cocktail rings once again assumed their position as a beacon of luxury and glitz.

During the 20th century, the range of dazzling cocktail rings seems to have been limitless, from glimmering gold rings set with carved jade diamonds designed by David Webb to Pomellato’s pink quartz confections to striking Gucci butterfly rings with accent diamonds set in a pavé fashion.

So, how do you wear a cocktail ring? Cocktail rings “can be worn for almost anything — dinners, date nights, parties, special events, on the red carpet,” explains David Joseph of New York-based jewelry brand Bochic

Can you wear cocktail rings with other rings? “In my opinion, cocktail rings should stand on their own since they showcase a large gem in the center,” says Joseph.

These glamorous jewels can be worn inside or outside crowded taverns, in either daytime or nighttime with casual or dressy attire. On 1stDibs, find a wide variety of antique and vintage cocktail rings, including those offered by Chanel, whose elegant cocktail rings often feature pearls and, of course, diamonds, and sometimes were styled after showy flowers like the camellia, and Van Cleef & Arpels, whose detailed and intricate designs are viewed as miniature pieces of wearable art.