Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
1960s North American Vintage Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Diamond, Ruby, Star Ruby, 14k Gold
Early 20th Century German Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Lapis Lazuli, Silver, Sterling Silver, Enamel
Early 1900s Italian Antique Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
9k Gold
1940s American Vintage Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Copper
2010s Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Yellow Gold
2010s Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Yellow Gold
2010s Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Yellow Gold
2010s Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Yellow Gold
1910s French Vintage Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
18k Gold
1990s German Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Gold Plate
1930s Danish Vintage Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Lapis Lazuli, Sterling Silver
20th Century American Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
1970s German Vintage Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Gold Plate
1980s French Vintage Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Gold Plate
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1910s Unknown Vintage Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
White Diamond, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, Enamel
Mid-20th Century American Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Copper
1860s French Antique Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Brass
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Coral, Freshwater Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s French Antique Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Pearl, Natural Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s Zambian Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Amethyst, Steel
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Diamond, Moonstone, Tourmaline, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Zircon, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Diamond, Multi-gemstone, Sapphire, Spinel, Silver
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Diamond, Platinum
1910s Unknown Vintage Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
White Diamond, 18k Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Pearl, Gold, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold, Enamel
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold
1910s British Vintage Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Opal, Gold, 15k Gold
1990s Spanish Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1910s American Vintage Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Natural Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s Italian Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Coral, Jade, 18k Gold, Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Diamond, Rose Gold
1990s American Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century German Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1880s American Antique Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Sterling Silver
19th Century French Antique Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Silver
1950s Spanish Vintage Art Nouveau Link Necklaces
Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold