Jaeger Reverso

Sleek, perfectly proportioned vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso watches capture the spirit of an era defined by forward-looking design and technological innovation. While the background on this piece is riveting, you don’t have to know the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso’s history to appreciate its charms.

Launched in 1931, Swiss watch brand Jaeger-LeCoultre’s aptly named Reverso watch is known for its ingenious reversible case, which smoothly slides out of its cradle, flips over and slides and clicks back into place so that the dial is hidden and the case back becomes the front.

The Reverso was conceived by Swiss businessman César de Trey, who, during his travels to India in 1930, noticed that British army officers would often finish a polo match with their watch glass shattered by stray mallet swings and polo balls. For a watch to withstand such impacts, de Trey concluded, the case would have to detach from its support and spin on an axis, allowing the face to be tucked away.

He approached his friend Jacques-David LeCoultre, a third-generation Swiss watchmaker, with the idea. LeCoultre and his frequent collaborator Frenchman Edmond Jaeger were well known for their superlative horological creations. The pair enlisted French industrial designer René-Alfred Chauvot to devise a smart-looking watch with a case that swiveled to form its own shield.

The result was an instant hit. Thanks to its streamlined Art Deco styling, with three gadroons along the top and bottom edges of the rectangular case, as well as its clever and practical design, the Reverso’s acclaim spread far beyond the polo field.

From the beginning, it had a unisex appeal and was embraced by a glamourous set of sports enthusiasts, celebrities and royals that included aviator Amelia Earhart; General Douglas MacArthur; Maharaja Jagatjit Singh, of Kapurthala; and King Edward VIII of Britain.

“Early Reverso models are extremely hard to find in good condition,” explains London-based collector and rare-watch expert Chris Kleanthous. “So often, they have been tampered with, or their case backs are engraved, which dramatically reduces their value.”

“I particularly love its size, which suits both men and women, as well as its sweep center seconds hand, which was introduced to the Reverso in 1934. Interestingly, this model is hallmarked 1938, which refers to the date it was brought into the UK. It was no doubt manufactured before this, and I suspect this timepiece was one of the first sweep seconds to ever have been made.”

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The exquisite art of watchmaking is on display in the distinctive designs of Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Swiss manufacturer is celebrated for its striking Art Deco–era antique clocks, while its range of sumptuous luxury watches spans the gamut of modern design, each one a time capsule of its period.

Jaeger-LeCoultre was established in 1833 by watchmaker Antoine LeCoultre in the Vallée de Joux of the Swiss mountains. LeCoultre was also an inventor who, in 1844, created the millionomètre. As the first instrument to measure thousandths of a millimeter with total accuracy, it refined the meticulous watchmaking process. By 1866, LeCoultre's son, Elie LeCoultre, took over the business. He revolutionized watchmaking by bringing all 180 skills involved in the trade into one workshop: LeCoultre & Cie Manufacture.

By 1903, the company had passed to Antoine LeCoultre's grandson, Jacques-David LeCoultre. He created a signature line of ultra-thin watches in partnership with Edmond Jaeger, a French watchmaker who specialized in flat watch cases. In 1907, Louis Cartier signed a contract with Jaeger so that Cartier would have movements for its popular timepieces produced exclusively at LeCoultre in Switzerland. This era saw the debut of Cartier’s Santos as well as its Tank watch.

Watchmakers at Jaeger-LeCoultre began to experiment with the Art Deco style that had encompassed the 1920s and the 1930s. At the time, there were many influences that led to the creation of Art Deco jewelry, while the cases of Art Deco clocks featured architectural details and saw an integration of materials such as brass, glass and marble. Iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre designs from this era include the 1928 Atmos clock and the Reverso watch. Stylish and practical, the coveted Reverso watch features a case that you can flip to protect the watch face.

During the 1950s and '60s, Jaeger-LeCoultre watchmakers continued the manufacturer’s tradition of prioritizing practical reliability. In 1958, the company introduced the robust and durable Geophysic watch collection. The Memovox Polaris, an alarm-equipped dive watch one could wear underwater, followed in 1968.

The best-known timepiece in the company's modern collection is the Master Control watch, unveiled in 1992. It symbolizes a return to the thin style and performance-first ethic of classic Jaeger-LeCoultre. In 2018, the watchmaker also launched the Polaris collection. Inspired by the original Memovox, the series features a sporty, elegant and contemporary look.

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Antique, new and vintage wristwatches have captured the hearts and minds of all manner of watch collectors as well as the watchmakers themselves — it's time you found your own.

Certain vintage watches for men and iconic watch designs for women are sought after not only because of their graceful proportions or innovative materials but also because of the illustrious histories of the houses that created them, histories that they stylishly embody.

Bulgari’s legendary Serpenti watch was on everyone’s list after the collection’s bold bracelet, which technically debuted after the timepiece, graced the wrist of actress Elizabeth Taylor. If anything, elaborately crafted timepieces — the unmistakably boxy silhouette of Cartier Tank watches, the elegant and minimal Calatrava designed by legendary Swiss house Patek Philippe — are even more effective than the shape we associate with traditional wristwatches.

Form watches — the all-encompassing moniker bestowed upon non-round watches — are making headlines and completing contemporary fashionable ensembles the world over. At the same time, both casual fans and careful collectors are drawn to the unbeatable charm of vintage styles, such as the icons designed by Omega that even James Bond can’t resist.

In the early days of watchmaking, watches were fragile enough that they necessitated protection from the elements. Now, wristwatches made of gold and steel can withstand the harshest climates — even 100 meters underwater, in the case of Rolex’s Submariner. Designer Gérald Genta, whose range of clients included Rolex, created for Audemars Piguet the first luxury sports timepiece to be made from stainless steel. First introduced in 1972, the Royal Oak was a perfect choice for blending the form and function that are now synonymous with sports watches.

Are you shopping for a wristwatch? It’s good to keep your needs as well as your specific personal style in mind: A smaller, subtle timepiece is a good fit for small wrists. When will you be wearing your new accessory? There’s a versatile model out there for everyday wear, while a rugged, feature-heavy watch is a safe bet if you’re prone to embarking on all-weather activities in the great outdoors.

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