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A Close Look at art-nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Finding the Right necklaces for You
We are fortunate to know much of the world’s long and dazzling history of necklaces, as this type of jewelry was so treasured that it was frequently buried with its owners.
Lapis lazuli beads adorned necklaces unearthed from the royal graves at the ancient Iraqi civilization of Sumer, while the excavation of King Tut’s burial chamber revealed a sense of style that led to a frenzy of Art Deco designs, with artisans of the 1920s seeking to emulate the elegant work crafted by Ancient Egypt’s goldsmiths and jewelry makers.
In ancient times, pendant necklaces worn by royalty and nobles conferred wealth and prestige. Today, wearing jewelry is about personal expression: Luxury diamond necklaces exude confidence and can symbolize the celebratory nature of a deep romantic relationship, while paper-clip chain-link necklaces designed by the likes of goldsmith Faye Kim are firmly planted in the past as well as the present. Kim works exclusively with eco-friendly gold, and these fashionable, fun accessories owe to the design of 19th-century watch fobs.
For some, necklaces are thought of as being a solely feminine piece, but this widely loved accessory has been gender-neutral for eons. In fact, just as women rarely took to wearing a single necklace during the Renaissance, men of the era layered chains and valuable pendants atop their bejeweled clothing. In modern times, the free-spirited hippie and counterculture movements of the 1960s saw costume-jewelry designers celebrating self-expression through colorful multistrand necklaces and no shortage of beads, which were worn by anyone and everyone.
Even after all of these years, the necklace remains an irrefutable staple of any complete outfit. Although new trends in jewelry are constantly emerging, the glamour and beauty of the past continue to inform modern styles and designs. In a way, the cyclical history of the necklace differs little from its familiar looped form: The celebrated French jewelry house Van Cleef & Arpels found much inspiration in King Tut, and, now, their Alhambra collection is a go-to for modern royals. Vintage necklaces designed by David Webb — whose work landed him on the cover of Vogue in 1950, two years after opening his Manhattan shop — were likely inspired by the ornamental styles of ancient Greece, Mesopotamia and Egypt.
On 1stDibs, browse top designers like Cartier, Tiffany & Co. and Bulgari, or shop by your favorite style, from eye-catching choker necklaces to understated links to pearl necklaces and more.
- What is Art Nouveau jewelry?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertNovember 2, 2021Art Nouveau jewelry generally featured three main themes: flora, fauna and women. The Art Nouveau movement lasted 15 years and it reached its pinnacle in the year 1900. Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Enameling is most often associated with Art Nouveau jewelry, specifically plique-à-jour. Known as backless enamel, plique-à-jour allows light to come through the rear of the enamel because there is no metal backing. It creates an effect of translucence and lightness. Shop a collection of antique and vintage Art Nouveau jewelry from some of the world’s top jewelers on 1stDibs.
- What is Art Nouveau furniture?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertAugust 15, 2019
Art Nouveau furniture was a style of furniture that emerged at the end of the 19th century and was characterized by its complex curved lines. The curved details in the furniture were typically carved by hand and finished with lacquer. The unmistakable gloss that is associated with Art Nouveau comes from the thick coat of varnish applied to the furniture as the final step of the production process.
- 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 27, 2024Art Nouveau was influenced by a few things. The soft colors and abstract images of nature seen in Japanese woodblock prints, which arrived in large numbers in the West after open trade was forced upon Japan in the 1860s, were a major source of inspiration. Also, Pre-Raphaelite art and the Arts and Crafts and Rococo styles had an influence on Art Nouveau designers. On 1stDibs, find a wide range of Art Nouveau furniture and decorative objects.
- 1stDibs ExpertAugust 15, 2019
The main difference between Art Nouveau and Art Deco is that the former is detailed and ornate, and the latter is sharp and geometrical. When the movement started at the end of the 19th century, Art Nouveau was heavily influenced by nature and the curved lines of flowers. Art Deco, which became popular in the beginning of the 20th century, was inspired by the geometric abstraction of cubism.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2024No one person created the Art Nouveau movement. However, the term debuted in an 1884 article in the L'Art Moderne journal, describing the work of a collective of artists known as Les XX. As a result, some people credit the group and its founding members, James Ensor and Théo van Rysselberghe, as helping to define the movement. However, Art Nouveau was heavily informed by work that came before, including Rococo design, Pre-Raphaelite art, Japanese art and the Arts and Crafts movement. Beyond Les XX, a number of creators helped to propel the movement. Among them were Charles Rennie Mackintosh, Louis Majorelle, Émile Gallé, Antoni Gaudí and Tiffany Studios. On 1stDibs, explore a diverse assortment of Art Nouveau furniture and decorative objects.
- Is stained glass Art Nouveau?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Yes, some stained glass is Art Nouveau. It was during this period that Louis Comfort Tiffany produced his famed stained glass windows and decorative objects. However, the tradition of producing stained glass traces all the way back to the Gothic period. You'll find a selection of stained glass on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Alphonse Mucha was a Czech painter who is one of the originators of the Art Nouveau style. His style of painting and design rose in popularity in 1895 and he produced many works, including illustrations, posters and jewelry designs. Find a variety of Alphonso Mucha art and prints on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertAugust 15, 2019
The Art Nouveau design movement used such materials as cast iron and steel, ceramic and glass. This style of architecture, design, art and jewelry was characterized by its use of long, sinuous lines that are reflected in nature.