Rhoda Wager

The Arts and Crafts movement that emerged in England in the late 19th century saw a dehumanization of design in the rise of industrialization and mass production of objects. Its practitioners prized craftsmanship and a close connection between the artisan and the entire process of what they were making. This included the design of Arts and Crafts jewelry and watches, which evolved as the movement spread to the United States in the early 20th century.

While much of the Arts and Crafts furniture realm was dominated by male designers like William Morris and Gustav Stickley, several women came to prominence in Arts and Crafts jewelry design, including British metalworker Charlotte Newman and American enamelist and metalsmith Elizabeth Copeland. Many creators were part of guilds, encouraging an exchange of ideas, with some focused on jewelry, like England’s Guild and School of Handicraft — founded by Charles Robert Ashbee — and Birmingham Guild of Handicraft.

In contrast to the Victorian era, with its decadent gemstones and heavy mourning jewelry, designers of Arts and Crafts jewelry looked to the past and abroad for inspiration, from simple medieval shapes to East Asian styles. The movement’s emphasis on natural forms overlapped with Art Nouveau. Flourishes like leaves and flowers formed from silver, aluminum and copper can be found in bracelets and necklaces designed in this style, while rings and earrings are adorned with affordable gems such as turquoise and freshwater pearls.

Arts and Crafts jewelry designers used materials that were often simple, such as semiprecious stones and enamel, which is one of the oldest forms of surface decoration. Artisans prioritized the use of artistic techniques to elevate the jewelry rather than expensive components, and every piece was intended to be one of a kind — a work of wearable art.

Find antique Arts and Crafts jewelry boxes and a collection of Arts and Crafts jewelry on 1stDibs.

Opals were discovered in 400 BC, and since then five types have been found throughout the world. Before you start shopping for mysteriously beautiful vintage opal rings and other opal jewelry, learn about the different varieties of the gem — and find out which historical figure was reportedly willing to trade his kingdom for a single stone.

Here is a little riddle for you: the month of October has two birthstones, but only one of them encompasses the colors of other birthstones. If you guessed opal, you’re right! (The other gemstone associated with the month of October is tourmaline.)

Opals are such unusual gemstones that there are too many old-wives tales associated with them, like if you’re a blond, wearing an opal necklace will protect your locks from losing color. Opals were also very fashionable in the early 19th century, up until the publication of Sir Walter Scott’s novel Anne of Geierstein in 1829. The title heroine wears an opal and succumbs to an untimely death. However, the British monarchy, and in particular Queen Victoria, did not let this story get in their way, and they frequently gifted opals to friends and family members. October babies should disregard the noise and proudly wear their opals!

There are five types of precious opals: boulder opal, fire opal, crystal/water opal, black opal, and white/light opal. Each variety is distinguished by its color.

So, where does the name come from? The word opal is thought to originate from the Roman opalus or from the Sanskrit úpala (“precious stone”) or from the Greek opallios (“to see a color change”). So while there have been many names for the stones, opals were first discovered in 400 BC in Ethiopia. But the early reference that comes up most often in history books is from the Roman philosopher Pliny the Elder, who wrote about it in 75 AD. In his text he refers to it as opali. The Romans were big fans of opal, Mark Antony was so enamored by it that, as the story goes, he was willing to trade a portion of his kingdom for a single opal.

There's a wide variety of antique and vintage opal jewelry on 1stDibs (and you won't have to trade your kingdom for it).

Vintage brooches, which refer to decorative jewelry traditionally pinned to garments and used to fasten pieces of clothing together where needed, have seen increasing popularity in recent years.

While jewelry trends come and go, brooches are indeed back on the radar thanks to fashion houses like Gucci, Versace, Dior and Saint Laurent, all of which feature fun pinnable designs in their current collections. Whether a dazzlingly naturalistic Art Nouveau dragonfly, a whimsical David Webb animal, a gem-studded bloom or a streamlined abstract design, these jewels add color and sparkle to your look and a spring to your step. 

Given their long history, brooches have expectedly taken on a variety of different shapes and forms over time, with jewelers turning to assorted methods of ornamentation for these accessories, including enameling and the integration of pearls and gemstones. Cameo brooches that originated during the Victorian age are characterized by a shell carved in raised relief that feature portraits of a woman’s profile, while 19th-century micromosaic brooches, comprising innumerable individually placed glass fragments, sometimes feature miniature depictions of a pastoral scene in daily Roman life.

At one time, brooches were symbols of wealth, made primarily from the finest metals and showcasing exquisite precious gemstones. Today, these jewels are inclusive and universal, and you don’t have to travel very far to find an admirer of brooches. They can be richly geometric in form, such as the ornate diamond pins dating from the Art Deco era, or designer-specific, such as the celebrated naturalistic works created by Tiffany & Co., the milk glass and gold confections crafted by Trifari or handmade vintage Chanel brooches of silk or laminated sheer fabric. Chanel, of course, has never abandoned this style, producing gorgeously baroque CC examples since the 1980s.

Brooches are versatile and adaptable. These decorative accessories can be worn in your hair, on hats, scarves and on the lower point of V-neck clothing. Pin a dazzling brooch to the lapel of your blazer-and-tee combo or add a cluster of smaller pins to your overcoat. And while brooches have their place in “mourning jewelry,” in that a mourning brooch is representative of your connection to a lost loved one, they’re widely seen as romantic and symbolic of love, so much so that a hardcore brooch enthusiast might advocate for brooches to be worn over the heart.

Today, find a wide variety of antique and vintage brooches for sale on 1stDibs, including gold brooches, sapphire brooches and more.