No Oil Ethiopian Emerald

Contemporary jewelry is inextricably linked with the moment in which it is created, frequently reflecting current social, cultural and political issues such as environmental consciousness, identity and sustainability. It’s informed by fashion trends, from the chokers of the 1990s to the large chain necklaces of the early 2000s.

Jewelry is one of the oldest forms of adornment. Lockets made of silver or gold have been treasured gifts for hundreds of years, for example, and charm bracelets, which have existed since prehistoric times, didn’t become especially popular until the 19th-century reign of Queen Victoria. For many centuries, fine jewelry was used primarily to express wealth or status through lavish materials. Then, in the 1960s, a concept known as the “critique of preciousness” emerged, with jewelers creating pieces that did not get their value from gemstones or precious metals. Instead, it was the jeweler’s artistic vision that was prized and elevated.

This shift still informs Contemporary jewelry being made by artists today. Whether they are using cheap, found materials and working with provocative geometric shapes or seeking out the rarest stones, they are imbuing their work with meaning through their skills, techniques and ideas. Innovative designers such as Elsa Peretti, who popularized sculptural sterling-silver jewelry for Tiffany & Co., and David Yurman, who twisted metal into the simple yet striking Cable bracelet, have also influenced the direction of Contemporary jewelry’s forms and aesthetics.

Meanwhile, technological advancements like metal alloys and laser engraving have led to new possibilities in jewelry design. Now, edgy makers and brands as well as minimalist designers are pushing Contemporary jewelry forward into the 21st century.

Find a collection of Contemporary rings, earrings, necklaces and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

Are you shopping for diamonds and other loose gemstones to create your own custom jewelry? 

Why might you purchase a diamond or gemstone “loose” — that is, on its own, not mounted in a piece of jewelry? Perhaps you’re a connoisseur looking to acquire a unique investment. The scarcity of high-quality colored diamonds, for instance, especially pink diamonds, means that their value increases over time; the same is true of rare Kashmir sapphires and Burmese rubies. Far rarer than diamonds, Paraiba tourmaline, discovered only in the 1980s, is treasured as much for its extraordinary color as its scarcity, both of which contribute to its high value.

A more common scenario would be that you’re hoping to create a very special piece of custom jewelry, such as an engagement ring or a milestone-birthday present, and want to personally select the most beautiful, unusual, or ultra-rare stone you can find and afford. Doing so adds to the romance and substance of the gift and can be a part of the story told as the jewel is passed from generation to generation.

If this sounds like you, read on for tips on becoming one of the world’s savviest gem hunters.

Educate yourself: When buying any piece of gem-set fine jewelry, you should familiarize yourself with the factors that determine a stone’s price. This will enable you to streamline your search for the perfect gem and have intelligent, productive conversations with sellers.

There is a wealth of information online, such as our diamond-buying guide and this overview of colored gemstones for engagement rings. The buying guides of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), searchable by stone type, are also a widely trusted source for consumers venturing into the world of diamonds and gems for the first time.

Vet your vendor: If you peruse 1stDibs with any regularity, you know there is no shortage of vendors who deal in top-quality loose gemstones. (Read about our vetted sellers.) Finding a trustworthy, established dealer may be as easy as getting a recommendation from friends or family. And, although it may sound obvious, it pays to Google your candidates — and consult customer reviews — before making contact.

Harakh Mehta, designer and founder of the Mumbai, India–based fine-jewelry brand Harakh, has an innate understanding of proper client relations, especially when the customer is in unfamiliar territory. “Start chatting with the dealer, get to know them better," he says. "It’s very important to establish a comfort level. We never push a sale, as we want it to be a carefully considered purchase. So, if the client is not in a rush, we do it over a few virtual meetings or phone calls.”

Request documentation: The best dealers go to great lengths to furnish clients with documents verifying the quality rating, natural origin and provenance of a stone — showing, for example, that loose emerald hails from the famous Muzo mine in Colombia — and disclosing any treatments applied to enhance its appearance. (And who doesn't love emerald jewelry? The most valuable emeralds are the ones that have a deep bluish-green to true green color and no visible inclusions.)

If no grading report is available for a stone you are interested in, the dealer should be able to provide an authenticity document, such as an appraisal or info sheet, that has been signed by an in-house gemologist or professional appraiser. Google those names, too, for extra peace of mind.

Ask for videos and visuals: When transacting with a gem dealer online, you should always request real-time videos and photographs, since professional photos of a stone, usually on a white background, have likely been retouched for optimal presentation.

Read more about how to buy loose gemstones and find your dream gems today on 1stDibs.