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Chanel

CHANEL (FRANCE)

The first Chanel shop was opened in 1910 in Paris on rue Cambon by the young milliner Gabrielle Chanel (1883–1971), who had picked up the nickname “Coco” while working as a club singer. The boutique drew the attention of the Parisian fashion elite who popularized her wide-brimmed Chanel Modes hats. Soon she added a sportswear store in the Normandy resort town of Deauville, where Coco set the tone for her defining sense of style — traditionally masculine garments reimagined for feminine shapes, made from simple jersey fabric.


Effortless and elegant, her designs promoted comfort and grace in women’s wear that had been dominated in the previous century by complicated layers of fabric and cumbersome corsets. She followed this success with a couture house, opened in 1915 in Biarritz. Over the next six decades, Coco Chanel would become a pivotal designer of both fashionable casual wear and Paris haute couture as well as an icon and arbiter of 20th-century style with her bob haircut and pearls.


However, Chanel was not born into a life of glamour. Following the death of her mother, her father left her in an orphanage where she lived until the age of 18. It was there that she learned to sew as well as appreciate the classic pairing of black and white as worn by the nuns. In 1926, she introduced her first little black dress, reclaiming a color that had once been reserved for mourning and working-class women. That same decade, she debuted her perfume, Chanel No. 5, as well as the Chanel suit with a fitted skirt, inspired by the boxy lines of men’s clothing and employing a sporty tweed. 


Chanel closed her fashion operations during World War II, then returned to the industry in 1954 to design for the functional needs of modern women. Structure and wearability endured in all of Chanel’s clothing and accessories, like the quilted leather 2.55 handbag introduced in 1955 with its gold-chain shoulder strap that freed up a woman’s hands. Chanel's collarless jacket reacted against the constricting styles of Christian Dior's New Look, replacing them with a design that was timeless, an instant classic. The 1957 two-tone slingback pumps had a practical heel height while offering a bold statement in the black tip of the shoes.


After Coco Chanel died in 1971, the brand underwent several changes in leadership, including fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld, who took over as artistic director in 1983. Over the years, the company has continued to innovate, such as expanding into ready-to-wear fashion in 1978 and, in 2002, establishing a subsidiary company — Paraffection — dedicated to preserving the heritage skills of fashion artisan workshops. The House of Chanel still operates its flagship on rue Cambon in Paris, where it all began.


Browse vintage Chanel evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.

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Designer:Chanel
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CoCo Chanel Glass Enamel Flower Belt
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
CoCo Chanel massive deep ruby, emerald pate de verre and crystal flower belt. One of CoCo Chanels self re inventions, refering back to her signature Fleur Emaille flower necklaces an...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Materials

Gold Plate, Bronze, Gilt Metal

Coco Chanel Gilt Filigree Bead Long Necklace, Goossens
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Coco Chanel Gilt Filigree Bead Long Necklace, Goossens. Long chain with gilt filigrees stacked and layered with polished gilt beads. A subtle play on matte and shiny in a long, trans...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Materials

Bronze, Gilt Metal

Coco Chanel Lion Head Ruby Drop Earrings
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
The most classic of earrings from Chanel with lions heads motifs . This is one of her favorite code motifs in textured and gilded bronze. Ruby Pate de verre pendant teardrops with cl...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Materials

Gilt Metal

Coco Chanel Lion Head Earrings
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
The most classic, early earrings from Coco Chanel with lion heads' motifs . One of her favorite codes in textured and gilded bronze. Black Pate de verre pendant teardrops with clip b...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Materials

Gilt Metal

Coco Chanel Early Poured Glass Sea Serpent Belt
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Coco Chanel Early Poured Glass Haute Couture Belt. Designed as a series of swag chains with emerald poured glass stations. Classically Baroque in the Chanel idiom with sea serpent mo...
Category

1960s Baroque Revival Chanel

Massive and Important Moghul Style Necklace by Maison Gripoix For Chanel
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Large and Important Moghul Style Necklace by Maison Gripoix. Luxuriously colored pate de verre, crystal pastes and faux pearls, completely hand made by Maison Gripoix and caftan read...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Materials

Gilt Metal

Rare Oversized Chanel Jewelled Crest*
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Rare Byzantine Crest Brooch of rectangular and square cut gem colored and crystal foiled stones. This incredibly massive brooch is mounted on a signature filigree back, a device of t...
Category

1980s Vintage Chanel

Chanel Baroque Pearl Pendant Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Chanel uses oversized handmade pearls for this pendant brooch of gilded bronze with paste accents by Goossens. The rococo bar brooch has a loop from which the pearl cross can be remo...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

CoCo Chanel Haute Couture Lion Belt
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
CoCo Chanel early chain belt composed of signature curb chain with classic signature lions head motifs terminating in an adjustable pendant tassel. Coco Chanel synthesizes her favor...
Category

1960s Chanel

Coco Chanel Byzantine Heart Crest Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Coco Chanel Early Byzantine heart brooch, The silvered metal heart set with crystal pastes and appliqued with faux emerald hand formed pate de verre rounds and square jelly cut stone...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Materials

Gilt Metal

Chanel Iconic Bronze and Pearl Necklace
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Massive bib with multiple strands of hand made faux baroque pearls of varying sizes mixed with graduated gilt bronze cupid plaques and chains. Based on a famous Chanel necklace c...
Category

1970s Vintage Chanel

Zodiac Pendant Neckace, Coco Chanel, Goosens
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Important necklace in Chanel's zodiac style with a Capricorn pendant suspended from a elaborately wire wrapped collar. The Zodiac again figures prominently here in her lexicon of mot...
Category

1970s Vintage Chanel

Rare Gilt Silver Capricorn Cuff, Chanel by Goossens
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Rare gilt silver Capricorn zodiac cuff by Chanel. A fierce Leo, she loved and repeatedly used zodiac imagery throughout her career. The large center plaque is held by 3 dimensional r...
Category

1970s Vintage Chanel

Materials

Gold Plate

Oversized Chanel Medieval Cruciform Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Chanel's appropriation of Medieval, Byzantine and Renaissance forms continued throughout her career, often in the form of oversized cruciform brooches and pendants. This one is set...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Emerald Wheat Cross Chanel : Goossens
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
So many of Chanel's favorite motifs remained with her and were distilled throughout her long life. The "cross" and "wheat" motifs from the 1930's both come into play in this massive ...
Category

1950s Vintage Chanel

Chanel Poured Glass and Paste Clover Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Clovers are another motif Chanel has revisited many times since the 1930s. This elaborate dimensional brooch derives from the Gripoix workshops in Paris. Dozens of rhinestone pegs de...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Materials

Bronze

Chanel Turquoise and Floral Filigree Earclips
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Chanel classic earclips of faux turquoise pate de verre cabochons set in gilt bronze floral filigree, hand set with pastes by studio Goossens. The style of these particular earclips ...
Category

1950s Vintage Chanel

Chanel Baroque Link Bracelet, Workshop Goossens
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Chanel link bracelet in antique gilt bronze with pate de verre faux emerald cabochons in the Renaissance taste. Handmade in a process unique to Goossens in which the glass is applied...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Chanel Lion Head Safety Pin Brooch, Maison Goossens
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Coco Chanel synthesizes her favorite "Go To" motifs into one brooch. The lion (her Astrological sign), the Kilt Pin (her visits to the Scottish Highlands) and the gilt Baroque of her...
Category

1950s Vintage Chanel

Materials

Gilt Metal

Chanel Dog Tooth Pearl Flower Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Chanel's sapphire poured glass, paste and dog tooth pearl brooch. The central motif, very classic in the Chanel iconography is mounted atop triangular hand made tooth pearls. Chanel ...
Category

1950s Vintage Chanel

Chanel Renaissance Quatrefoil Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Chanel renaissance style brooch quatrefoil in form of turquoise pate de verre and multiple pearls. This style of brooch was one of Chanel's "Fords" of bijoux fantasie made by Goossen...
Category

1950s Vintage Chanel

Materials

Bronze

Classic Chanel Turquoise Birds Nest Earclips
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Classic Chanel earclips of faux turquoise pate de verre rounded cabochons set in signature handmade birds nest wire setting with pastes by studio Goossens. The style of these particu...
Category

1950s Vintage Chanel

Chanel Heraldic Double Lion Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Whether they were Lions or Leos, Chanel was fiercely aligned with them throughout her life. This heraldic form brooch has obvious royal connotations. In her life she had many interac...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Chanel Filigree Capped Black Bakelite Bracelet
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
In this Chanel bracelet,the play of layered baroque gilt caps against shiny gilt and black bakelite spheres with pave rondels creates an interesting dynamic. These bracelets are stru...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Iconic Chanel Turquoise Cluster Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
One of Mlle. Chanel's most popular brooch designs. Handmade Pate de verre beads made to simulate turquoise matrix set in a gilded bronze web scattered with pastes. Often purchased a...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Iconic Chanel Turquoise Cluster Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
One of Mlle. Chanel's most popular brooch designs. Handmade Pate de verre beads made to simulate turquoise matrix set in a gilded bronze web scattered with pastes. Often purchased a...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Matrix Turquoise Pate de Verre Ear Clips; Chanel
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Chanel loved how her studios could replicate stones to look either real or faux for her designs. Whether the intent was to fool or convince, her workshops had the means to do so. ...
Category

1970s Vintage Chanel

Chanel Filigreed Crown Earrings with Ruby Beads: Goosens
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Chanel earrings created by using rich gilded filigrees which have been studded with ruby pate de verre beads. Dimensional and baroque in feeling, these earclips are signed by both Ch...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Chanel Gilt Leaf Brooch with Pastes and Pearls, Goossens
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Striking floriform brooch completely handmade by Goossens for Chanel. Chanel's favorite fox chain is transformed into a spray of leaves centered with pastes. The texture of the chain...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Coco Chanel Paste Set Clover Brooch, Goosens
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Classic clover brooch from Chanel with all the bells and whistles. Signature semiprecious color combinations, rich gold framework with an oversized center pearl. Dimensional and powe...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Chanel Filigree Capped Gilt Ball Bracelet
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
In this Chanel bracelet the play of layered baroque gilt caps against shiny gilt spheres and pave rondels creates an interesting dynamic. These bracelets are strung on a tension wire...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Important Jewelled Clover Brooch, Property of Coco Chanel
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Coco Chanel's personal brooch in the form of a four leaf clover of gilt chased bronze set with a central raised faux pearl. The pearl is surrounded by amythest, citrine, olivine and ...
Category

1950s Vintage Chanel

Materials

Bronze

Chanel Ruby Pate de Verre Holly Brooch: Goossens
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Attractive and unusual holly brooch by Chanel. Robert Goosens is the workshop for this handmade brooch of fluted gilt leaves, pate de verre ruby beads and pastes. Unusual because it ...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Important Byzantine Style Brooch, Property of Coco Chanel
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Formerly property of Coco Chanel, this Byzantine style brooch of gilt bronze by Goossens is formed of four square pate de verre emeralds enclosing a large pearl with two cabochon pat...
Category

1950s Vintage Chanel

Iconic Chanel Lion Belt, Workshop Goossens
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Iconic gilt bronze double lion belt by Goossens for Chanel. Chanel was a strong believer in astrology and referenced her own zodiac sign throughout her life and work. Lions and their...
Category

1950s Vintage Chanel

Massive Faux Pearl and Emerald Sautoir Necklace, Chanel
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Pearl and Emeralds. This elegant and classic combination takes on a different effect when supersized to this proportion. Chanel sticks to her established idioms and uses 3 strands of...
Category

1970s Vintage Chanel

Materials

Bronze

Chanel Gilt Flower Brooch: Workshop Gripoix
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Attractive gilt bronze flower brooch by Maison Gripoix for Chanel. Handmade streamers are edged with looped wire to free form the many "petals" of the flower. A dome set with poured ...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Materials

Bronze

Amazing Chanel Moghul Pate de Verre Paisley Belt, Gripoix
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Fabulous Chanel moghul inspired belt of paisley forms set with hundreds of hand poured glass cabochons. An extraordinary wonder of craftsmanship and design, no doubt in sync with the...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Classic Chanel Bar Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
A twisted gilt wire with a faux pearl cabochon. Chanel has been photographed often in variants of this brooch. Simply iconic and timeless like its creator. Executed by Goossens works...
Category

1950s Vintage Chanel

Important Moghul Pate de Verre Collar, Chanel
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Unusual Chanel leaf formed bib in the Moghul taste made with 2 tones of turquoise pate de verre. A darker shade lines the neckline while the persian turquoises accentuate the leafy t...
Category

1950s Vintage Chanel

Chanel Looped Wire Flowerhead Earrings
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Lovely handmade flower earrings by Goossens for Chanel. Looped gilt wires free form the flowerheads which are studded and centered with pastes. Clip back fittings. 1 3/8" Plea...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Coco Chanel Lion Crest: Goossens
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Themes and variation. The Chanel double lion brooch was also made as a single lion brooch, no doubt inspired by her time in the UK (and her astrological sign). Lagerfeld even paid...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Chanel Filigree Capped Gilt Ball Necklace
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
In this necklace the play of multi-toned layered baroque gilt caps against shiny gilt spheres creates an interesting dynamic. This Chanel series was well documented and sold in the p...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Poured Glass Iconic Medieval Cross Necklace, Chanel
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Although Chanel probably didnt have much of a choice, "Cross" motifs became a recurring theme throughout her career. From her time at the orphanage in Aubazine to her fascination wit...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Chanel Ruby Pate de Verre and Faux Pearl Earrings
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Especially attractive when viewed from the side, these period Chanel earrings combine her love of pearls with the rawness of faux rubies. A row of gilt filigreed caps surrounds ...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Materials

Bronze

Chanel Turquoise, Pearl and Paste Diadem
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Handwrought Renaissance style diadem by Robert Goossens for Chanel. Textured metal has been "cut" from behind to reveal pate de verre turquoises, faux pearls and pastes. A ...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

Extraordinary Chanel Moghul Glass Bib : Workshop; Gripoix
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Fine and rare ruby pate de verre floral bib by Maison Gripoix for Chanel. Each flower on this bib has completely hand forged metalwork which forms the frames into which the molte...
Category

1950s Vintage Chanel

Materials

Gold Plate, Bronze, Enamel, Gilt Metal

Important Chanel Renaissance Pendant Necklace
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
This is one of the more elaborate and unusual Chanel necklaces in this offering. Chanel again channels the splendor of the Renaissance with this exceptional necklace of cruciform lin...
Category

1960s Vintage Chanel

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