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Antique Natural Untreated Ruby Necklace of 18k Gold
Located in Lewisburg, PA
gold floral pendant (circa 1880) is hand pierced and etched with a natural, untreated ruby of
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, 14k Gold, 18k Gold

AIG Certified 1.10 Ct Untreated Ruby Diamonds 18K Gold Ring
Located in Massafra, IT
So stunning design and style fir this refined ring in 18k with a unheated ruby from Mozambico of
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

AIG Certified Untreated Mozambique Pigeon Blood Ruby Diamonds 18K Gold Necklace
Located in Massafra, IT
necklace come in 18k gold with a Untreated Natural Mozambique Ruby of 3,30 carats, spectacular Pigeon Blood
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

AIG Certified 2.50 Ct Untreated Mozambique Ruby 3.40 Ct Diamonds 18K Gold
Located in Massafra, IT
An exquisite piece from Masterpiece collection: Ruby Diamonds ring. The untreated ruby in the
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

AIG Certified 2.50 Ct Untreated Mozambique Ruby 3.40 Ct Diamonds 18K Gold
Located in Massafra, IT
An exquisite piece from Masterpiece collection: Ruby Diamonds ring. The untreated ruby in the
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

16.00 Carat Natural Untreated Star Ruby Cluster Cocktail Ring 18K
By Emeralds Maravellous
Located in US
setting. Surrounded by a halo of seven Burmese untreated oval star rubies weighing approx. 12 carats
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Art Deco Cocktail Rings

Materials

Ruby, Star Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Fine Untreated Deep Red Ruby & Diamond Oval 18k Yellow Gold Halo Rubover Ring
By Gems and Jewels UK
Located in Birmingham, GB
Fine Untreated Deep Red Ruby And Diamond 18k Yellow Gold Halo Ring. Stylish modern halo ring
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

GFCO Certified 3.63 Ct Untreated Mozambique Ruby 2.34 Ct Diamonds 18K Gold Ring
Located in Massafra, IT
, with a centre spectacular Natural Unheated Ruby. Ring come in 18k gold with a centre Natural Unheated
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Jadeite Jade Ring Emerald Green, Rubies, Diamonds, 18k, Certified Untreated
Located in Southbury, CT
I commissioned this ring myself, using a gorgeous old-mine natural and untreated jadeite jade
Category

2010s American Artisan Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Jade, Ruby, 18k Gold

Untreated Burma Ruby And Diamond Ring
Located in New Orleans, LA
This antique cocktail ring showcases 1.10 carats of untreated Burma rubies interspersed with
Category

20th Century Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

1 carat Untreated Red Ruby Ring
By SONYA K.
Located in Brooklyn, NY
At SONYA K. we enjoy creating stackable and transformable pieces that allow you to express your own
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Fashion Rings

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold

Ruby Tennis Bracelet Rare Princess Cut Natural Untreated Ruby Bracelet 18Kt Gold
Located in Jupiter, FL
Astonishing piece, all matching rubies untreated, made in tennis bracelet in 18KT gold. GRAM WEIGHT
Category

21st Century and Contemporary North American Modern Tennis Bracelets

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold

Untreated Ruby and Diamond Ring 3.02 Carat
Located in New Orleans, LA
A dazzling 3.02-carat untreated ruby radiates at the center of this mesmerizing stone-led design
Category

20th Century Mozambican Engagement Rings

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold, Platinum

IGI Certified 18.56ct Untreated Star Sapphires, Sapphires & Rubies Gold Necklace
Located in Hong Kong, HK
Beautiful 18K White Gold Necklace with a stunning pendant, showcasing an extraordinary combination
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Hong Kong Drop Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Sapphire, Star Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

Ruby Diamond Ring 18 Karat White Gold Cocktail Ring Natural Untreated Ruby Ring
Located in Jupiter, FL
) Carat: 0.45ct NATURAL RUBY (NATURAL UNTREATED) Cut: Oval Cabochon Color: Pinkish Red Clarity: Slightly
Category

21st Century and Contemporary North American Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Untreated Burma Cabochon Ruby Ring, 6.31 Carats
Located in New Orleans, LA
, the gem is encircled by 26 sparkling round diamonds set in 18k yellow gold, enhancing the stone’s
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Modern Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

Certified 1.50 Carat 'Natural & Untreated' Ruby & Diamond Ring
Located in London, GB
. Certified by Emteem Gem Labs, the ring is custom-crafted in your choice of 18K yellow gold, white gold, or
Category

21st Century and Contemporary English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold

Certified 1 Carat 'Natural & Untreated' Ruby & Diamond Ring
Located in London, GB
Behold the allure of our 1-carat natural and untreated Ruby, elegantly showcased in our 18K yellow
Category

21st Century and Contemporary English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Oval Untreated Natural Ruby Engagement Three-Stone Ring 18 Karat Gold
By Emeralds Maravellous
Located in US
-stone yellow and white 18k gold mounting. Special Remarks: Untreated Please allow 2-3 weeks for the
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Contemporary Engagement Rings

Materials

Ruby, Yellow Gold, White Gold, 18k Gold, Gold

3.14ct untreated cushion Mozambique Ruby ring. GIA certified.
Located in Los Angeles, CA
0.34 carats, fabricated in platinum with 18K yellow gold. This scarce ruby is accompanied by a GIA
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

French Edwardian Untreated Ruby Diamond 18 KT/Platinum Ring
Located in Napoli, IT
crafted of solid 18 Kt gold with Platinum top French origin, hallmarked Set on one side with a natural no
Category

Antique Early 1900s French Edwardian Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum

GRS Certified 4.21 Carat Burmese Ruby Certified Untreated Diamond Ring
Located in Chicago, IL
Stunning oval Burmese unheated untreated ruby weighing 4.21 carats that showcases remarkable
Category

2010s American Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

GIA Certified 5 Carat Unheated/Untreated Ruby from Mozambique
By Antinori Fine Jewels
Located in Chicago, IL
features a incredible cushion cut 5 carat pure red ruby. Exquisite 5.02-Carat Unheated/Untreated Ruby
Category

2010s Unknown Contemporary Engagement Rings

Materials

Ruby, White Diamond, Diamond, Platinum, 18k Gold, Gold

AIG Certified 81.00 Carats Untreated Zambia Emerald Burma Ruby Sapphire Bracelet
Located in Massafra, IT
style. Bracelet come in 18K gold with 2 pieces of natural Untreated Carving Zambian Emeralds, fine
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Modern Bracelets

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

GRS Certified 3 Carat VIVID RED Untreated Ruby Diamond Ring
Located in Chicago, IL
VS1 clarity , this elegant cocktail ring is crafted in 18K white gold. The center stone’s clean lines
Category

2010s American Contemporary Engagement Rings

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, White Gold, 18k Gold

Regency Natural Untreated Ruby Diamond Rare Memorial 18 KT ring
Located in Napoli, IT
work of art and unique example of the memento mori jewellery, 18 KT solid gold Designed with an
Category

Antique 1840s British Regency Signet Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

AIG Certified 4.55 Ct Untreated Mozambique Rubies 6.08 Ct Diamonds Bracelet
Located in Massafra, IT
sophisticated, unique , by Italian designer. Bracelet come in 18k gold with 6 pieces of Natural Unheated
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Modern Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Certified 1.5 Carat 'Natural & Untreated' Ruby & Diamond East West Halo Ring
Located in London, GB
Elevate your style with our custom-made ring, featuring a 1.55-carat natural untreated Ruby in a
Category

21st Century and Contemporary English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold

GRS Certified 5.14 Carat Natural Untreated Unheated Red Ruby Diamond Ring
By Antinori Fine Jewels
Located in Chicago, IL
A STUNNING red ruby diamond ring! GRS Certified 5.14 Carat Natural Untreated Unheated Red Ruby
Category

2010s Unknown Contemporary Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

AIG Certfied 2.00 Ct Untreated Mozambique Pigeon Blood Red Ruby GIA Diamond Ring
Located in Massafra, IT
elegance and charm. Stunning ring come in 18k gold with a Natural Untreated Mozambique Ruby of 2,00 carat
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Three-Stone Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Art-Deco Untreated, Unheated 2.10 carats Ruby and Diamond Cluster Ring
Located in OVIEDO, AS
Art-Deco Untreated, Unheated 2.10 carats Natural Ruby Vivid Red and Diamond Cluster Ring. The oval
Category

Early 20th Century French Art Deco Cluster Rings

Materials

Ruby, White Diamond, Diamond, Platinum, 18k Gold

Ring with Oval 1.40 Carat Untreated Mogok Ruby 3-Stone Halo Ring
By Bonebakker
Located in Amsterdam, NL
This 18 karat white gold ring features an untreated strong to deep red Ruby weighing 1.40 carat
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Dutch More Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold

GIA Certified 1.00 Ct Diamonds Certified 1.04 Ct Untreated Mozambique Ruby Ring
Located in Massafra, IT
designer, a very impressive piece. Ring come in 18K gold with a Natural Unheated Mozambique of 1,04 carats
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Unique Pink Sapphire & Diamond Certified Untreated Crossover 18k Oval Pendant
By Gems and Jewels UK
Located in Birmingham, GB
Vivid Pink Untreated Sapphire & Diamond 18k Yellow & White Gold Crossover Pendant. Fine 0.61 Carat
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Pink Sapphire, Ruby, Purple Sapphire, Sapphire, White Diamond, Diamond, ...

AIG Certified 102.00 Ct Untreated Zambia Emeralds Burma Rubies Sapphire Necklace
Located in Massafra, IT
designer, a very piece of art. Necklace come in 18k with 2 centre natural Untreated Carving Zambian
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Necklace Enhancers

Materials

18k Gold

0.80ct Ruby marquise diamond engagement ring in 18k yellow gold.
Located in London, GB
0.80ct Ruby marquise diamond engagement ring in 18k yellow gold. Ruby marquise natural untreated
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold

Untreated oval Spessartite Garnet earrings. 16.51 carats. GIA certified.
Located in Los Angeles, CA
18K earrings, featuring two untreated Spessartite Garnets totaling 16.51 carats, complemented by
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Modern Dangle Earrings

Materials

Garnet, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Solid 18K Yellow Gold Untreated Ruby and Diamond Designer Ring
Located in Deland, FL
Brand New Very rare plum-pinkish red burmese rubies Ring weighs 12.8 grams. Contains 4.10 CTS of
Category

2010s American Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

French Belle Époque Untreated Ruby Diamond Gold Ring
Located in Middleton, WI
untreated ruby. This was her ring. Made during the Belle Époque era in about 1910, in France. This ring
Category

Vintage 1910s French Belle Époque Dome Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum

Victorian UNTREATED Burmese Ruby Diamond Silver Gold Rosette Earrings
Located in Calabasas, CA
Each earring is backed in 18 karat gold, topped in silver and centers 1 prong-set round mixed-cut
Category

Antique 1890s Unknown Victorian Lever-Back Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Silver

Vintage 1990s Certified Untreated 3.2 Carat Ruby Diamond Gold Cocktail Ring
Located in Berlin, Berlin
combines them in their purest forms. In its centre gleams a natural, untreated ruby in an intense rose red
Category

1990s Unknown Retro Dome Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold

Magnificent Vintage Untreated Sapphire Ruby Diamond Cross over Ring
Located in Napoli, IT
Substantially hand crafted of solid 18 KT gold with assay and maker punch Designed as two overlapping sweeping S
Category

Vintage 1940s Retro Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Rare 4ct Untreated Star Ruby Diamond Halo Ring 18ct Yellow Gold Gents Unisex
Located in Mona Vale, NSW
a special piece. Featuring a natural, untreated Star Ruby surrounded by a halo of sparkling Diamonds
Category

2010s Burmese Modern Signet Rings

Materials

Star Ruby, Ruby, Diamond, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

Natural 92 Points Untreated Ruby VS Diamond Solid 18 Karat White Gold Ring
Located in Kiara, AU
18 carat white gold ring set with natural Ruby and diamond. The Ruby is an unheated and untreated
Category

2010s Australian Contemporary Cluster Rings

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

18 Carat Modern White Gold Untreated Ruby and Diamond Eternity or Dress Ring
Located in Splitter's Creek, NSW
Such a pretty & complementary to other Rings, is this lovely slim Ruby & Diamond Eternity/Band
Category

2010s Unknown Modern Bridal Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold

Estate Vintage Ruby and Diamond Earrings with over 14 Crt of Untreated Rubies
Located in Antwerp, BE
: Vintage Period: ca. 1950 Material: 18K yellow gold Diamond(s): 72 modern brilliant cut diamonds with an
Category

Mid-20th Century Unknown Retro Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Certified 13.52 Carat Natural Untreated Ruby and Diamond Platinum Ring
Located in Antwerp, BE
When untreated rubies of over 10 carats weight are a rarity, imagine what this 13½ carat untreated
Category

Early 20th Century Unknown Art Deco Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, White Diamond, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, Platinum, Gold

Victorian Burma Sapphire 4.60ct Certificated Untreated, Pearl, Ruby Bee/Insect/B
Located in London, GB
, sapphire and diamond wings, natural pearl and cabochon natural untreated Burma Sapphire. Mounted in 18ct
Category

Antique 1850s British Victorian Brooches

Materials

Sapphire, Pearl, Blue Sapphire, Ruby, Natural Pearl, White Diamond, Diam...

Stunning Cocktail Ring with One big Natural Untreated Ruby 11.21crt and Diamonds
Located in Antwerp, BE
Style: Vintage Period: ca. 1970 Material: 18K white gold Diamond(s): 18 brilliant cut diamonds with
Category

Vintage 1970s Unknown Retro Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

Victorian 3.00 Ct Untreated Ruby .80 Carat Old Mine Diamond Crescent Moon brooch
Located in Napoli, IT
1880 ca – beautifully hand crafted of solid 18 KT rose gold – tested Adorned with a superb selection of
Category

Antique 1880s Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Certified Pear Cut 5.4 Carat Untreated Red Ruby Diamond Art Deco Engagement Ring
Located in Orlando, Florida
featuring IGI/GIA Certified 5.43 Carat Natural Ruby and 0.20 Carat of Diamond Accents set in 18K Solid Gold
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Art Deco Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, White Gold, 18k Gold

Untreated Deep Red Ruby 0.51ct Oval Cut 18k Yellow Gold Rubover Pendant Necklace
By Gems and Jewels UK
Located in Birmingham, GB
Fine Untreated Deep Red Ruby 18 Karat Yellow Gold Solitaire Pendant Necklace. Stunning 0.51 carat
Category

21st Century and Contemporary British Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

GIA Certified 1.03ct Untreated Deep Red Ruby 18k Yellow Gold Oval Solitaire Ring
By Gems and Jewels UK
Located in Birmingham, GB
Natural Untreated Deep Red Ruby GIA Certified 18k Yellow Gold Solitaire Ring. Beautiful 1.03 carat
Category

21st Century and Contemporary British Solitaire Rings

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

GIA Certified 3.40 Carat Untreated Rubies & Diamond Cluster Ring set in 18K Gold
Located in Tokyo, JP
A beautiful Ring set in 18 Karat Gold featuring a GIA Certified 3.40 Carat Natural Untreated Rubies
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Japanese Modern Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

GIA Certified Deep Red Untreated Ruby and Diamond Oval Cut 18k Yellow Gold Ring
Located in Birmingham, GB
Deep Red Untreated Ruby & Diamond 18k Yellow Gold Ring. Fine 1.63 carat ruby with a beautiful deep
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Untreated Ruby and Diamond White Gold Cocktail Ring
By Etho Maria
Located in Greenwich, CT
Ruby and Diamonds come together to enhance their beauty in this amazing creation. This precious
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Modern Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

22.85 Carat Untreated Burma Rubies Diamond Gold Platinum Bracelet
Located in New Orleans, LA
Twelve exceptionally rare, untreated Burma rubies are set within this luxurious bracelet. Weighing
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Contemporary Tennis Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum

GIA Certified 1.07 Carat Natural Untreated Ruby and Diamond Ring Set in 18K Gold
Located in Tokyo, JP
A beautiful engagement ring set in 18K Gold featuring a GIA Certified 1.07 Carat Natural Untreated
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Japanese Modern Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Untreated Sleeping Beauty Turquoise Bead Ruby Diamond Gold Necklace
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Untreated Sleeping Beauty turquoise bead necklace with ruby diamond and gold clasp. Comprising two
Category

1990s Contemporary Beaded Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Turquoise, 18k Gold

Untreated Burma Ruby Ring, 6.58 Carats
Located in New Orleans, LA
A spectacular Natural Burma ruby glows with a brilliant crimson hue in this elegant ring. Weighing
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Contemporary Solitaire Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum

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18k Gold Untreated Ruby For Sale on 1stDibs

On 1stDibs, you can find the most appropriate 18k gold untreated ruby for your needs in our varied inventory. Every item for sale was constructed with extraordinary care, often using gold, 18k gold and white gold. Our collection of these items for sale includes 149 vintage editions and 249 modern creations to choose from as well. Finding the perfect 18k gold untreated ruby may mean sifting through those created during different time periods — you can find an early version that dates to the 18th Century and a newer variation that were made as recently as the 21st Century. A 18k gold untreated ruby from Ella Gafter, David Jerome and Gems and Jewels UK — each of whom created a beautiful version of this treasured accessory — is worth considering. A 18k gold untreated ruby can make for a versatile accessory, but a selection from our variety of 288 diamond versions can add an especially stylish touch. See these pages for an oval cut iteration of this accessory, while there are also round cut cut and brilliant cut cut versions available here, too. Finding a 18k gold untreated ruby for sale for women should be easy, but there are 136 pieces available to browse for unisex as well as men, too.

How Much is a 18k Gold Untreated Ruby?

On average, a 18k gold untreated ruby at 1stDibs sells for $10,280, while they’re typically $400 on the low end and $685,000 for the highest priced versions of this item.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design

This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.

Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef & Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.

Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.

Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.

When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.

According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.

Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.