Antique Saddle Diamond Filigree Ring Edwardian

Antique Edwardian jewelry is named for King Edward VII of Great Britain, who ruled from 1901 until 1910. Classic Edwardian necklaces, engagement rings, earrings and other jewelry are often overshadowed by the more popular style of the era, Art Nouveau, which is a shame. At its best, Edwardian jewelry was all about the exquisite diamond, platinum and pearl creations made by such famous names as Cartier and Boucheron.

Edward introduced incredibly formal Buckingham Palace court presentations, balls and soirées, resulting in a huge demand for diamond jewels starting with his coronation in 1902. Dozens of tiaras and formal jewels in an updated 18th-century style were purchased from French jewelers Boucheron and Chaumet and from Russia’s Fabergé. The court jewelers Asprey, Garrard, Carrington and the newly opened London branch of Cartier were all overwhelmed with orders for sumptuous diamond jewelry to be worn at the king’s elaborate coronation.

During the Edwardian era, pearls were more valuable than diamonds. The pear-shaped pearl La Peregrina, for example, belonged to some of the most fabulous and strongest women in history and bounced among royal courts in Spain, France and Russia for several centuries. So while today the scale and clarity of a diamond ring matters, back then the size and quantity of your pearls was more important a declaration of wealth. And just as Victorian notions of propriety and femininity began to change after Queen Victoria died in 1901, jewelry design also evolved but there was some overlap with late Victorian styles.

Women of the Edwardian period sported bejeweled headpieces like tiaras and bandeaus with feathered aigrettes. Another popular piece of jewelry that is said to have been directly inspired by Queen Alexandra were colliers de chien, or dog collars — today's choker necklaces — which consisted of either a ribbon decorated with a brooch, a gemstone or several strands of pearls strung closely together.

Two major jewelry houses, Cartier and Boucheron, were founded in the mid-1850s, and by the beginning of the 20th century, the wealthy considered them household names. The Cartier brand became even more desirable once the house became the official jewelry supplier to King Edward VII. Cartier took this title seriously and designed some of the most innovative jewelry of its day, since it was willing to experiment with new materials like platinum and because it was mindful of fashion trends. Filigree settings also became popular. This saw-piercing technique was decorative and at the same time created a sense of lightness.

Perhaps even more important than Cartier’s use of platinum was the founding of De Beers Consolidated Mines Limited in 1888. The discovery of new diamond mines made the stone more affordable and prompted the introduction of new gemstone cuts. It is not uncommon to see Edwardian jewels with baguette or briolette diamonds.

Find antique Edwardian rings, bracelets, watches and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

A flashy symbol of wealth during the early 20th century, antique and vintage cocktail rings have gained broader appeal in the decades since for the hefty dose of glamour they bring to any ensemble.

Cocktail rings earned their name for their frequent appearances during glitzy cocktail parties at the height of the Prohibition era. Back then, these accessories were seen not only as statement pieces but as statements in and of themselves. They openly represented a sense of freedom and independence as well as a demonstration of opulence. After all, the 1920s heralded the Harlem Renaissance and Art Deco design, and a slew of social and cultural shifts meant that women in particular were breaking from pre–World War I conventions and embracing newfound freedoms to express themselves as individuals.

Women expressly wore cocktail rings on the fingers of their right hand versus the left, which was “reserved” for an engagement ring or wedding band, accessories definitely paid for by a suitor. And for cocktail rings, the bigger the colored gem at the center — which is usually mounted in a high setting — and the more elaborate the design, the stronger the likelihood of being noticed.

Cocktail rings remained a popular piece of jewelry for women until the 1930s, when the Great Depression and the onset of war marked a change in behaviors nationwide. While the 1960s and ’70s saw a return in visibility for the accessory, it wasn’t until the 1980s that cocktail rings once again assumed their position as a beacon of luxury and glitz.

During the 20th century, the range of dazzling cocktail rings seems to have been limitless, from glimmering gold rings set with carved jade diamonds designed by David Webb to Pomellato’s pink quartz confections to striking Gucci butterfly rings with accent diamonds set in a pavé fashion.

So, how do you wear a cocktail ring? Cocktail rings “can be worn for almost anything — dinners, date nights, parties, special events, on the red carpet,” explains David Joseph of New York-based jewelry brand Bochic. 

Can you wear cocktail rings with other rings? “In my opinion, cocktail rings should stand on their own since they showcase a large gem in the center,” says Joseph.

These glamorous jewels can be worn inside or outside crowded taverns, in either daytime or nighttime with casual or dressy attire. On 1stDibs, find a wide variety of antique and vintage cocktail rings, including those offered by Chanel, whose elegant cocktail rings often feature pearls and, of course, diamonds, and sometimes were styled after showy flowers like the camellia, and Van Cleef & Arpels, whose detailed and intricate designs are viewed as miniature pieces of wearable art.