Victorian Heart Brooch
20th Century Brooches
Agate, Gold-filled
Antique 1880s British Victorian Brooches
Diamond, 15k Gold, Silver
Antique 1890s Victorian Brooches
Moonstone, 15k Gold
Antique 1890s Victorian Brooches
Amethyst, Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Antique Early 1900s Victorian Brooches
Pearl, Peridot, Gold, 9k Gold
Antique 19th Century Victorian Brooches
Diamond, Gold, Silver
Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Brooches
9k Gold, Rose Gold
Antique Late 19th Century Unknown Victorian Brooches
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique 1890s Victorian Brooches
Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique 19th Century Victorian Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Brooches
Pearl, Gold, 9k Gold
Antique 19th Century Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Gold, Silver
Antique Late 19th Century English Victorian Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, 15k Gold
Antique 1890s British Victorian Brooches
Diamond, Natural Pearl
Antique Late 19th Century British Victorian Brooches
Diamond, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
Antique 1870s Brooches
Diamond, 14k Gold
Antique Late 19th Century English Victorian Brooches
Gold, 15k Gold
Antique 1890s English Victorian Brooches
Gold, Rose Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver, Sterling Silver
Antique Early 1900s Victorian Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique 1890s Victorian Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique 1890s Victorian Brooches
Antique Early 1900s Victorian Brooches
Diamond, Emerald, Gold, 14k Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Antique 19th Century Brooches
Chalcedony, Pearl, 15k Gold
Early 20th Century British Victorian Brooches
9k Gold, Enamel
Antique Late 19th Century British Victorian Brooches
Peridot, Gold
Antique Early 1900s Victorian Brooches
Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century Victorian Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Late 19th Century French Victorian Brooches
Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Gold
Vintage 1930s Portuguese Victorian Brooches
Turquoise, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
Antique 1880s Unknown Brooches
Diamond, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique 1890s Victorian Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, 10k Gold, Rose Gold
Early 20th Century European Victorian Brooches
Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Early 1900s Edwardian Brooches
Opal, Pearl, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique 19th Century Victorian Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, 14k Gold
Antique 19th Century Unknown Victorian Brooches
Amethyst, Pearl, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
1990s Victorian Brooches
Citrine, Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Early 1900s British Victorian Pendant Necklaces
Pearl, Peridot, Gold, Yellow Gold, 15k Gold
Antique 1850s English George V Pendant Necklaces
Moonstone, Pearl, 15k Gold
Early 20th Century British Edwardian Drop Necklaces
Diamond, Amethyst, Natural Pearl, 18k Gold
Antique 1880s European Victorian Pendant Necklaces
Diamond, Natural Pearl, 15k Gold, Silver
Antique 1860s European Victorian Pendant Necklaces
Diamond, Moonstone, Pearl, 10k Gold, Silver
Antique 19th Century Unknown Victorian Pendant Necklaces
Diamond, Onyx, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
Antique 19th Century Unknown Victorian Pendant Necklaces
Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Rose Gold
Antique 19th Century British Victorian Pendant Necklaces
Pearl, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Antique 1870s Victorian Pendant Necklaces
Diamond, 14k Gold, Silver
Antique 1890s British Late Victorian Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, Natural Pearl, Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
Antique Late 19th Century British Victorian Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, Natural Pearl, Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
Antique 1860s British Victorian Brooches
Emerald, Natural Pearl, Ruby, Gold
Antique Late 19th Century English Victorian Pendant Necklaces
Diamond, 15k Gold, 9k Gold, Silver, Yellow Gold
Antique 1860s British Victorian Brooches
Agate, Silver
Antique 1880s European Victorian Brooches
Diamond, Opal, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
Antique 1860s English Victorian Brooches
Diamond, Moonstone, Gold, Silver
Early 20th Century English Late Victorian Brooches
Gold, Rose Gold, Silver
Antique 19th Century French Victorian Brooches
Diamond, 18k Gold, Silver
Antique Early 1900s Unknown Victorian Brooches
Turquoise, Silver
Antique Early 1900s British Victorian Brooches
Pearl, 15k Gold
Antique Late 19th Century Unknown Victorian Brooches
Diamond, Natural Pearl, 15k Gold, Silver
Antique Early 1900s British Victorian Brooches
Diamond, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique 1880s Victorian Brooches
Diamond, 9k Gold, Silver
Antique Early 1900s British Victorian Brooches
Pearl, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
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Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertOctober 12, 2021As the name suggests, mourning jewelry represents connection to a deceased individual or loved one. In the Victorian era, people were expected to wear mourning clothing and accessories following the death of a loved one. As brooches were popular during the Victorian period, they became a favorite for those who wanted to memorialize the dead. Find a collection of vintage and antique brooches on 1stDibs today.