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Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.
Finding the Right Wrist-watches for You
Antique, vintage and luxury wristwatches have captured the hearts and minds of all manner of watch collectors as well as the watchmakers themselves — it's time you found your own.
Certain vintage watches for men and iconic watch designs for women are sought after not only because of their graceful proportions or innovative materials but also because of the illustrious histories of the houses that created them, histories that they stylishly embody.
Bulgari’s legendary Serpenti watch was on everyone’s list after the collection’s bold bracelet, which technically debuted after the timepiece, graced the wrist of actress Elizabeth Taylor. If anything, elaborately crafted timepieces — the unmistakably boxy silhouette of Cartier Tank watches, the elegant and minimal Calatrava designed by legendary Swiss house Patek Philippe — are even more effective than the shape we associate with traditional wristwatches.
Form watches — the all-encompassing moniker bestowed upon non-round watches — are making headlines and completing contemporary fashionable ensembles the world over. At the same time, both casual fans and careful collectors are drawn to the unbeatable charm of vintage styles, such as the icons designed by Omega that even James Bond can’t resist.
In the early days of watchmaking, watches were fragile enough that they necessitated protection from the elements. Now, wristwatches made of gold and steel can withstand the harshest climates — even 100 meters underwater, in the case of Rolex’s Submariner. Designer Gérald Genta, whose range of clients included Rolex, created for Audemars Piguet the first luxury sports timepiece to be made from stainless steel. First introduced in 1972, the Royal Oak was a perfect choice for blending the form and function that are now synonymous with sports watches.
Are you shopping for a wristwatch? It’s good to keep your needs as well as your specific personal style in mind: A smaller, subtle timepiece is a good fit for small wrists. When will you be wearing your new accessory? There’s a versatile model out there for everyday wear, while a rugged, feature-heavy watch is a safe bet if you’re prone to embarking on all-weather activities in the great outdoors.
Find antique, vintage and luxury wristwatches for sale on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022All of Patek Philippe’s watch models are collector’s items and popular in their own right. The widely coveted Nautilus sports watch line, for example, has been produced without interruption for more than four decades, but it’s hard to say which of the brand’s watches is the most popular because different models cater to different needs and preferences. On 1stDibs, you’ll find a variety of expertly-vetted vintage and contemporary Patek Philippe watches from some of the world’s top sellers.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Wearing a Patek Philippe luxury wristwatch is an excellent status symbol for any aspiring celebrity or businessperson. In 1851, the Queen of England sported a Patek Philippe watch, and it increased its popularity among wealthy, high-profile people. You'll find a collection of authentic Patek Philippe watches on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021Patek Philippe watches are commonly seen as the best brand for Swiss watches, particularly because of their quality, level of expertise, and value. In the manufacturing process there are often 60 steps needed even for subtle aspects which also adds to the cost.
- 1stDibs ExpertNovember 21, 2023Yes, Patek Phillippe is a luxury watch. The Swiss watchmaker uses only fine-quality materials and is known for producing sophisticated, highly accurate movements. All Patek Philippe watches are painstakingly handcrafted to ensure quality. It takes artisans nine months to produce the brand's most basic watches. A single complicated model can require two years of crafting to fully complete. On 1stDibs, find a large collection of Patek Phillippe watches.
- 1stDibs ExpertMarch 22, 2022Yes, Patek Philippe does have a tourbillon watch, the Grand Complications 6002R. The model is a redesign of the Reference 6002 Sky Moon Tourbillon. It features a rose gold case, a champlevé and cloisonné brown enamel dial and a chestnut alligator leather strap. Shop a wide range of Patek Philippe watches on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertMarch 22, 2022Patek Philippe watches are generally considered to be exceptionally good timepieces. The brand continuously creates new technologies to expand the functionality and increase the accuracy of their designs, and artisans handcraft every watch that bares the Patel Phillipe name. Even production of the parts takes place in-house to ensure quality. Shop a wide range of Patel Phillipe watches on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertMarch 22, 2022Patek Philippe watches are one of the most accurate timepieces available in the luxury market today. The level of accuracy varies from watch to watch. However, every watch the brand offers is accurate by -3 to +2 seconds over a 24-hour period. On 1stDibs, find a variety of expertly vetted Patek Philippe watches.
- 1stDibs ExpertNovember 21, 2023To identify a Patek Philippe watch, first locate the serial and model numbers. Depending on the timepiece, you will usually find them printed inside the case or along the interior edges. Once you have these numbers, cross-check them with trusted online resources to determine which watch you have. If you run into any difficulty, consult a licensed appraiser or knowledgeable dealer for assistance with identification. Explore a variety of Patek Philippe watches on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Adjustments on a Patek Philippe watch vary depending on the model. The crown is for winding the timepiece, and other functions are often controlled by push buttons. For specific instructions on adjustments and settings, consult the brand’s website. On 1stDibs, find a collection of vintage and contemporary Patek Philippe watches.
- 1stDibs ExpertNovember 22, 2024Whether you can just buy a Patek Philippe watch depends on what type of timepiece you would like. Patek Philippe sells its new watches via authorized dealers, and the waitlist for purchasing one is often quite lengthy. However, you can also shop for the luxury watchmaker’s timepieces on trusted online platforms. Explore a large selection of Patek Philippe watches on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertNovember 22, 2024Here is a brief history of Patek Philippe watches. The house was founded in Geneva in 1839 by Polish expats Antoni Patek and Franciszek Czapek. Czapek later left the firm, and, in 1845, Patek partnered with French watchmaker Jean Adrien Philippe.
Catering to the glitterati of Europe, the pair counted among their clients Tolstoy, Pope Pius IX and Queen Victoria, as well as Countess Koscowicz of Hungary, for whom they created the first Swiss-made wristwatch in 1868. They also had their eye on the American market and, in 1851, entered into an arrangement with Tiffany & Co., still in effect today. During the Great Depression, brothers Jean and Charles Stern, who had previously supplied Patek Philippe with watch dials, bought the company, and it continues to be run by the Stern family today.
Under the Sterns, the house has developed some of its most famous models, including the Calatrava, an elegantly minimal dress watch introduced in 1932 and named for the Calatrava Cross (the company’s logo since 1887), and the Nautilus, the brand’s first sports watch, conceived by legendary designer Gérald Genta in 1976. Despite the house’s longevity, it’s rumored that it has manufactured fewer than a million watches, making each one all the more coveted.
On 1stDibs, find vintage Patek Philippe watches for sale. - 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Yes. Patek Philippe watches are waterproof — some more than others. In 1979, Patek Philippe devised a watch that was fully waterproof down to 120 meters, which was astonishing for the times. However, Patek Philippe dress watches aren’t designed to be in water regularly, but two of its sport watches, the Aquanaut and the Nautilus, are designed for wearing in the water, and they’re water-resistant down to 120 meters. Shop a collection of vintage and new Patek Philippe pieces from some of the world’s top boutiques on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertNovember 8, 2023Yes, there are fake Patek Philippe watches. One way to identify an authentic timepiece produced by the Swiss watchmaker is to examine the back of its case. Patek Philippe doesn't put reference or serial numbers on the case backs, but many fakes will display them. On a real Patek Philippe timepiece, you'll see either a Geneva seal or the Patek Philippe logo, which is a double P. You will usually also find markings that identify the type of material it is made from. If you're unsure of the authenticity of a particular piece, seek input from a certified appraiser or knowledgeable dealer. On 1stDibs, find a large collection of Patek Philippe watches.
- 1stDibs ExpertNovember 1, 2023Yes, some Patek Philippe watches feature gold. The Swiss luxury watchmaker frequently works with white, yellow and rose gold for its alluring timepieces. Additionally, there are Patek Philippe watches made with platinum and combinations of precious metals. Explore a diverse assortment of Patek Philippe watches on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022To set a Patek Philippe watch, pull the crown out to its farthest setting when the second hand hits the 12:00 mark. The second hand will stop, and you can set the time by turning the crown until the watch shows the right time. Then, push the crown back in, and the watch is set. On 1stDibs, find vintage and modern Patek Philippe from top sellers worldwide.
- 1stDibs ExpertMarch 22, 2022Yes, Patek Philippe does have women's watches available for sale. The brand's signature Nautilus timepiece comes in a slimmer silhouette intended for women. In addition, the brand offers the Twenty~4 Automatic collection exclusively for women. These watches are available in stainless steel and rose gold. Most models feature genuine diamond accents. Shop a range of Patek Philippe women's watches on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022The best Patek Philippe watch is ultimately a matter of opinion. Since its founding in 1839, demand has soared for the wide range of sophisticated timepieces that the legendary watchmaker has brought into the world. Whether you gravitate toward the Calatrava, the Nautilus or another model, Patek Philippe has crafted many different watches that offer various levels of complexity and design. Shop a large collection of vintage and contemporary Patek Philippe watches to suit any taste on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertMarch 22, 2022Patek Philippe watches may be quartz or mechanical, depending on the model. The brand uses quartz movements in some Gondolo, Nautilus and Aquanaut timepieces. However, the majority of the brand's watches feature manual or self-winding mechanical movement. Find a collection of Patek Philippe watches on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Yes, all Patek Philippe watches have serial numbers. Luxury watches will often have a serial number to help with authentication. Patek Philippe serial numbers are engraved on the case back. Consult the brand’s website for more information on finding the date of manufacture on your watch. On 1stDibs, find a collection of vintage and contemporary Patek Philippe watches.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Yes, Patek Philippe watches hold their value very well due to their immense popularity among collectors. Patek Philippe is one of the world's premier watchmakers with over 150 years of experience. On 1stDibs, find a collection of vintage and contemporary Patek Philippe watches.
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