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For its extraordinary range of bracelets, watches, rings and other adornments, French luxury house Cartier is undeniably one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.
Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.
Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)
Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.
One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.
Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.
On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle inspired by medieval chastity belts that transformed fine jewelry.
While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces.
Find contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories on 1stDibs.
Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.
- Are Cartier watches automatic?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertMay 1, 2024Yes, some Cartier watches are automatic but the legendary French luxury house also creates collections that include watches with quartz movements. Cartier’s iconic Tank collection, which includes the Tank Française, the Tank Louis Cartier and other models, features both quartz and automatic options for all kinds of collectors. Each of the watches in the Panthère collection, however, carries a quartz movement.
While quartz watches are powered by a pre-installed battery and a high-frequency quartz crystal, automatic watches rely on a spring system and are self-winding. An automatic watch does not have a battery and is recharged on the wrist owing to the wearer’s movements during the day.
It was Louis Cartier, grandson of Cartier founder Louis-François Cartier, who was responsible for bringing watchmaking to the venerable maison when he presented Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont with a wristwatch in 1904.
Although the pocket watch was the de rigueur men’s accessory of the day, Santos-Dumont found his own pocket watch hard to consult while keeping his plane aloft. Louis fashioned a timepiece with a flat, square case on a leather strap that could be referred to easily at a glance. Named in honor of Louis’s friend, the Santos was eventually produced for sale in 1911.
Find vintage Cartier watches for sale on 1stDibs. - 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021A Cartier engagement ring can cost between $3,000 and $800,000. The price depends on the diamond's carat weight and quality.
- Is Cartier a luxury watch?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Yes, Cartier watches are considered luxury watches. Cartier is a noted jeweler, taking that attention to detail and access to high-quality metals and jewels to their watches—they spare no expense and are highly desirable. On 1stDibs, find a collection of authentic Cartier watches from some of the world’s top sellers.
- Is Cartier cheaper in Paris?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021Cartier pieces may be cheaper in Paris than they are in the U.S., but that's because of the exchange rate. Cartier doesn't price the pieces depending on the country.
- How much is a Cartier worth?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertOctober 30, 2024How much a Cartier is worth varies. Many Cartier pieces do appreciate in value over time, but their potential selling prices depend on their age, style, type, availability and other factors. The condition also greatly impacts value, and there can be variability between very similar pieces. For example, one 1930 Tutti Frutti fetched $1.34 million at an auction in 2020, but a simpler one sold for $508,000 in 2023. Because it can be difficult to estimate the value of a piece on your own, experts recommend consulting a certified appraiser or experienced dealer. Shop a wide variety of Cartier jewelry and watches on 1stDibs.
- Is Cartier the same as Rolex?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertDecember 17, 2024No, Cartier is not the same as Rolex. Louis-François Cartier founded Cartier in Paris in 1847. Some of its most iconic watches include the Tank, the Santos, the Ballon Bleu, the Calibre de Cartier and the Drive de Cartier. Hans Wilsdorf established Rolex in London in 1905. Today, the maker is well-known for its sophisticated watches, including the Submariner, the Daytona, the DateJust, the Oyster Perpetual and the GMT-Master II. Find a selection of Cartier and Rolex watches on 1stDibs.
- How much is a Cartier bracelet?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021The price of Cartier bracelets varies based on age, condition, and rarity. The least expensive versions of the Cartier Love bracelet, for example, can still cost around $4,000. On 1stDibs, there is a variety of Cartier bracelets for sale.
- Does Cartier rose gold fade?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021Cartier rose gold doesn't tarnish but over many years of wearing, rose gold generally is said to become darker. Rose gold allegedly becomes slightly yellower in tone, toward a traditional gold.
- Is Cartier real gold?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021As one of the top luxury jewelry houses in the world, Cartier uses some of the finest quality materials. The company uses 18k gold in their jewelry and real diamonds.
- Why is Cartier so popular?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 13, 2024There are a few reasons why Cartier is so popular. For one thing, the French luxury house is known for its very long history of unparalleled prestige and quality craftsmanship. Cartier has been producing extraordinary jewelry, watches and accessories since 1847. While jewelry lovers have long been enthusiastic about Cartier’s elegant and streamlined designs for bracelets, rings, necklaces and other pieces, the brand is also known for innovation. It pioneered the use of platinum in fine jewelry, and its artisans were so mindful of trends in fashion that the house became the official jewelry supplier to King Edward VII. Later, Cartier’s Art Deco-era pieces would help define the movement with which they are associated. One of the brand’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch, one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. Today’s influencers continue to help popularize the brand, increasing the demand for certain pieces like Cartier buffalo horn sunglasses and the Cartier Love bracelet, an icon of modernist jewelry. Find a wide range of Cartier watches, jewelry and eyewear on 1stDibs.
- What is Cartier famous for?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertMarch 22, 2022Cartier is famous for producing jewelry and watches out of rare and luxury-grade materials and creating innovative designs, often packed with symbolism. Some of the jeweler's most famous pieces include the modern Love and Trinity bracelets and its custom-made antique and vintage jewelry like the Crocodile and Patiala necklaces. Find a range of Cartier jewelry and watches on 1stDibs.
- What is the Cartier symbol?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021Today, the Cartier symbol, or logo, is the luxury house's name written in a clean serif font that mimics cursive handwriting. Typically, the logo is either black on white or white on a black background. Its refined and understated appearance references the high standards that have long been associated with this celebrated brand.